All Food & Drink Tips

2008-11-02T02:10:00.000+07:00

Moroccan Chicken in a Pressure Cooker

2008-06-13T09:11:00.000+07:00

Morocco is in North Africa, but this recipe reveals its Mediterranean ties: Onion, garlic, olives, lemon, and parsley pack flavor into this easy-to-make chicken dish. Unlike other pressure-cooker recipes, you don't have to brown the chicken! Just heat the olive oil and add the remaining ingredients. The resulting flavor and aroma is amazing. If you want to cut some calories, you can even remove the chicken skin.

Moroccan Chicken

Preparation time: 10 minutes

Cooking time: 15 minutes under pressure

Pressure level: High

Yield: 4 servings

4 tablespoons olive oil

1 large onion, sliced

1 clove garlic, thinly sliced

2 tablespoons minced flat-leaf parsley

1 tablespoon minced cilantro

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper

4 threads saffron (optional)

One 3- to 4-pound chicken, quartered

1 cup chicken broth

1 large lemon, thinly sliced

8 large green Sicilian olives

1 package (10 ounces) couscous

1. Heat the olive oil in a pressure cooker over medium-high heat. Add the onion, garlic, 1 tablespoon of the parsley, cilantro, salt, pepper, and, if desired, the saffron. Stir well. Add the chicken. Stir to coat with the onion mixture. Pour the broth over the chicken; do not stir. Place the lemon slices on top of the chicken.

2. Cover and bring to high pressure over high heat. Lower the heat to stabilize the pressure. Cook for 15 minutes.

3. Remove from the heat. Let the pressure drop using a quick-release method.

4. Unlock and remove the cover.

5. Remove the chicken with a slotted spoon to a platter. Cover to keep warm.

6. Reduce the cooking liquid over high heat until the sauce is thick. Add the olives and cook until warmed through. Pour the sauce over the chicken. Sprinkle with the remaining 1 tablespoon parsley.

7. Serve with cooked couscous, prepared according to package directions.

Barbecue Ribs the Right Way

2008-06-12T15:28:00.001+07:00

Pork ribs need long, slow, indirect grilling to create a rich barbeque flavor. The following is a summary list of important points to consider before heading out to barbecue pork ribs.

1. Build an indirect fire by piling the coals on one side of the grill. (This method gives you plenty of room to place the large rib slabs away from the heat of the fire.) You also can stack the charcoal in a circular ring around the edges of the grill. You can cook the ribs indirectly in a gas grill, but a charcoal fire gives them more flavor.

2. Cook the ribs slowly for 1-1/2 to 2 hours, over medium heat (325° to 350°) and over a drip pan half filled with water. Long, slow cooking makes for moist and tender ribs with a crisp crust. If in the first 30 minutes the ribs are browning too quickly, shut the grill vents.

3. Determining when pork ribs are done is a little tricky, but after 1-1/2 to 2 hours, you can be virtually certain that the ribs are fully cooked. However, the meat's color is not an indication of doneness. Smoke from the coals or from burning wood chips can turn the interior of the meat pink and leave you with the impression that it's not cooked. If you can move the rib bones back and forth without a lot of resistance after 1-1/2 to 2 hours, the meat is cooked.

4. Add any basting sauce that has a component of tomato or other sweet ingredient to the ribs during the last 20 minutes of cooking. Adding the sauce late in the process keeps the sauce from burning.

5. You can toss in a large handful of presoaked wood chips each time you add fresh coals to the fire. Or build the fire by using a combination of charcoal and hardwood oak or hickory chunks to achieve extra smoky flavor.

With these tips in mind, here's a great ribs recipe.

Baby Back Ribs with Sweet-Hickory Barbecue Sauce
In this recipe, baby back ribs are protected from the intense heat of the grill by wrapping them in aluminum foil until nearly cooked. In the final 30 minutes, the ribs are then grilled over indirect heat where they develop a nice brown crust without any charring or overbrowning. This rib barbecue sauce is savory-sweet with a hint of liquid hickory smoke seasoning, which you should be able to find at most grocery stores. It will soon become one of your family's favorite sauces with any kind of poultry, beef ribs, steaks, or even burgers.

Preparation time: 20 minutes

Grilling time: 1-1/2 hours

Yield: 3 to 4 main dish servings or 6 to 8 appetizer servings

Ingredients:

2 full racks baby back pork ribs (about 3-1/2 pounds)

4 tablespoons water

2 teaspoons liquid hickory smoke seasoning

1-1/2 cups Sweet-Hickory Barbecue Sauce (see following recipe)

1. In a covered grill, prepare a medium charcoal fire or preheat a gas grill to medium.

2. Cut each rack of ribs in half to make 4 equal-sized pieces, with about 6 to 7 ribs to a piece. Lay 2 pieces of the ribs side-by-side on a long sheet of heavy-duty aluminum foil. Wrap tightly, using a drugstore wrap, but leave one end of the foil packet open. (Figure 1 illustrates how to use a drugstore wrap.) Repeat with the 2 remaining rib pieces and a second long sheet of foil.

Figure 1: Doing the drugstore wrap.

3. Combine the water and liquid smoke seasoning; spoon half of the liquid smoke-water mixture into each foil packet; seal the ends tightly to prevent leakage.

4. Place both packets flat on the preheated grill grid; cover and cook for a total of 60 minutes, turning the packets over about every 20 minutes. Remove the packets from the grill to a large baking pan and let rest.

5. If you're using a gas grill, raise the heat on one burner to create a medium-hot indirect fire. If using a charcoal grill, add more coals to the fire to raise the temperature of the fire to medium-hot, and then bank them to one side.

6. Remove the foil wrapping; place the ribs on a lightly oiled grid, opposite the fire or heat. Cover the grill and cook for about 30 minutes or until the ribs are done, turning and basting both sides with the Sweet-Hickory Barbecue Sauce about every 10 minutes. Heat the remaining sauce just to boiling in a small saucepan and serve with the ribs.

Sweet-Hickory Barbecue Sauce
Preparation time: About 15 minutes

Yield: About 2 cups

Ingredients:

1/3 cup soy sauce

1/2 cup water

4 scallions, cut into 1-inch pieces

6 large cloves garlic, peeled and crushed

1/4 cup chili sauce

1/4 cup ketchup

1/4 cup corn syrup

1/4 cup honey

1 teaspoon liquid hickory smoke seasoning

In a small bowl, whisk together all the sauce ingredients; cover and refrigerate several hours or overnight to meld flavors. The sauce can be stored in the refrigerator for about a week.

Vietnamese Lemongrass Rub for Grilled Lamb, Chicken, and Seafood

2008-06-11T11:03:00.000+07:00

This recipe for Vietnamese Lemongrass Rub creates a wet rub — any seasoning mix that incorporates a little oil to form a paste. The lemongrass offers a nice summery flavor that pairs especially well with lamb. You can use this grilling rub with seafood or chicken, too.

Vietnamese Lemongrass Rub
Preparation time: 20 minutes

Cooking time: None.

Yield: 4 servings

3 fresh lemongrass stalks, root end trimmed and 1 or 2 outer leaves discarded from each stalk

2 shallots, chopped

3 garlic cloves, chopped

2 teaspoons freshly chopped and peeled ginger

Zest of 1 lemon

Juice of 1 lime

1-1/2 tablespoons sugar

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon ground cayenne pepper

3 tablespoons water

2 tablespoons fish sauce (optional)

5 tablespoons peanut oil or vegetable oil

1. Thinly slice bottom 6 inches of the lemongrass, discarding the remainder.

2. Puree lemongrass, shallots, garlic, ginger, lemon zest, lime juice, sugar, salt, cayenne, water, and fish sauce in a food processor, scraping down the sides occasionally, until as smooth as possible, about 2 minutes.

3. To finish the rub, slowly drizzle the peanut oil or vegetable oil into the rub mixture while the food processor is on. Continue processing until oil is incorporated. Store in a glass container and refrigerate until ready for use.

Use the wet rub just like you would a marinade: Marinate in a glass or stainless steel bowl (or use a zippered plastic bag). Cover with plastic wrap, and let it sit on the meat in the refrigerator to absorb the flavors. Turn the meat once in a while to distribute flavor evenly. Blot off the wet rub before you cook.

You can find lemongrass in the produce sections of most grocery stores. It's a perennial grass that has an extremely tough texture but a very fresh and light lemon flavor that is used a lot in Thai and Vietnamese cooking. Look for firm stalks that are pale yellow or white at the bottom and green elsewhere. Leave browned stalks of lemongrass in the store. If you're having trouble finding lemongrass, try an Asian market.

An important factor is the size of the meat you're marinating:

Small pieces of meat, like shrimp or boneless chicken breasts, grab flavors in about an hour.
Give steaks and chops at least three hours and as many as six hours.
Veggies do well with a couple hours' marinating time.
Whole chickens, pork loins, rack of lamb, or other big pieces of meat need at least 5 hours and as many as 14 hours in the marinade.
If you're marinating something as big as a pork shoulder or brisket, allow about a day.

Cook Up Carrots, Jamaican Style

2008-05-24T11:17:00.000+07:00

Spicy and slightly sweet, Jamaican jerk seasonings bring carrots to life in this recipe. A pressure cooker speeds up the time by 10 minutes. If you are a vegetarian or vegan or want to try something new and healthy, add diced spicy tofu before serving and heat. A bright green vegetable and pasta or rice rounds out the meal. For nonvegetarians, chicken breast or a white fish like flounder goes well.

Spicy Island Carrots

Preparation/Cooking time: 20 minutes

Yield: 4 servings

1 pound baby carrots, sliced or unsliced, or regular carrots, sliced

2 tablespoons brown sugar

1 teaspoon hot pepper sauce

1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice

1 teaspoon ground cumin

2 cloves garlic, minced

1/2 teaspoon chili powder

1. In a medium nonstick saucepan, add the carrots and cover with water. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 10 minutes, or until the carrots are tender but still firm. Drain the carrots and transfer to a bowl.

2. Dry the saucepan and coat with nonstick spray. Add the brown sugar, hot pepper sauce, lemon juice, cumin, garlic, and chili powder.

3. Cook, stirring, for 2 to 3 minutes, or until the sugar bubbles and the spices are fragrant. Add the carrots. Toss or stir to coat the carrots with the sauce. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

You can add lots of vegetables to this dish, but keep them small. Try diced celery, peas, chopped parsley, or chives. You can even add diced cooked poultry, ham, or beef if you want to use it as an entree with meat.

Easy Beef Soup

2008-05-23T22:34:00.000+07:00

Economical and filling, this tasty beef soup is one of the easiest recipes to make. Serve it with some crusty bread and a salad for a satisfying meal.

Spanky's Beef Soup with Tomatoes and Potatoes

Yield: 6 to 8 servings

Preparation time: 15 minutes

Cooking time: 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 hours

Freezes well

One 14-ounce can whole tomatoes with juice, broken into pieces with the back of a spoon

4 cups beef broth or water

1 pound beef chuck, shank, or bottom round, cut into 1-inch cubes

1 medium onion, quartered and thinly sliced

2 medium potatoes, about 12 ounces, peeled and diced

2 celery stalks, sliced

1 carrot, sliced

2 plump cloves garlic, peeled and coarsely chopped

1/2 bay leaf

1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves, about 1 sprig, or 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme

Salt to taste

Freshly ground black pepper to taste

2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

In a large pot over medium heat, combine the tomatoes, broth, beef, onion, potatoes, celery, carrot, garlic, bay leaf, and thyme.

Reduce the heat to medium-low. Simmer, partially covered, until the meat and vegetables are tender, about 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 hours. Skim off any foam that forms during the cooking process.

Remove the bay leaf. Season with salt and pepper, and stir in the parsley.

Per Serving: Calories 192.9; Protein 14.2g; Carbohydrates 12.3g; Dietary fiber 1.8g; Total fat 9.4g; Saturated fat 3.7g; Cholesterol 38.7mg; Sodium 689.4mg.

Bartending Basics: Creating Non-Alcoholic Drinks

2008-05-19T10:17:00.000+07:00

A good number of your guests may choose not to drink alcohol, but this decision doesn't mean that they're stuck with boring soft drinks. Any of the following recipes are sure to impress, especially when served in traditional bar glasses.

Cranberry Collins
1/2 cup Ocean Spray Cranberry Juice Cocktail
1/2 Tbsp. Lime Juice
1 cup Club Soda, chilled
Ice Cubes
Lime Slices
Mix Cranberry Juice Cocktail and Lime Juice. Stir in Club Soda. Add Ice Cubes and Lime Slices.

Chocolate Banana Colada Shake
1/3 cup Coco Lopez Cream of Coconut
1/2 cup Milk
1 Tbsp. Chocolate Syrup
1-1/2 cups Chocolate or Vanilla Ice Cream
1/2 cup Sliced Banana
Mix all ingredients in a blender until smooth. Serve immediately.

Coco Lopez Shake
2-1/2 oz. Coco Lopez Cream of Coconut
1 scoop Vanilla Ice Cream
1 cup Ice
Mix ingredients in a blender until smooth.

Dust Cutter
3/4 oz. Rose's Lime Juice
6 oz. Schweppes Tonic Water
Combine over ice in a tall glass.

Fruit Bowl
1 oz. Orange Juice
1 oz. Pineapple Juice
1 oz. Grape Juice
1 oz. Grapefruit Juice
Shake with ice. Serve in a tall glass.

Grapefruit Cooler
8 oz. Grapefruit Juice
3 dashes Angostura Bitters
Pour Grapefruit Juice into a tall glass filled with ice. Add Bitters and stir.

Kona Coast
1 oz. Rose's Lime Juice
1/4 oz. Rose's Grenadine
5 oz. Mott's Apple Juice
2 oz. Schweppes Ginger Ale
Stir together and serve over ice in a tall glass.

New Orleans Day
2 oz. Coco Lopez Cream of Coconut
1 oz. Butterscotch Topping
1 oz. Half & Half
1 cup Ice
Mix in a blender until smooth.

Nada Colada
1 oz. Coco Lopez Cream of Coconut
2 oz. Pineapple Juice
1 cup Ice
Mix in a blender until smooth.

Orange Smoothie
2-1/2 oz. Coco Lopez Cream of Coconut
3 oz. Orange Juice
1 scoop Vanilla Ice Cream
1 cup Ice
Nutmeg
Mix first four ingredients in a blender until smooth. Sprinkle with Nutmeg.

Pina Colada Shake
1/2 cup Unsweetened Pineapple Juice
1/3 cup Coco Lopez Cream of Coconut
1-1/2 cups Vanilla Ice Cream
Mix in a blender until smooth. Serve immediately.

Red Racket
1/2 cup Ocean Spray Cranberry Juice Cocktail, chilled
1/2 cup Ocean Spray Grapefruit Juice, chilled
10 Ice Cubes
In a blender, combine Grapefruit Juice and Ice Cubes. Blend on high speed till frothy. Pour into a tall glass.

Ruby Cooler
1 cup Ocean Spray Cranapple Drink
1 tsp. Instant Tea
Lemon Wedges
Mix Cranberry Juice and Tea. Pour over ice into two tall glasses with Lemon Wedge garnishes.

Shirley Temple
1 oz. Rose's Lime Juice
1 oz. Rose's Grenadine
6 oz. Schweppes Ginger Ale
Pour ingredients over ice in a tall glass. Garnish with a Cherry.

Virgin Mary
4 oz. Tomato Juice
dash Worcestershire Sauce
dash Salt and Pepper
dash Tabasco Sauce
In a glass filled with ice, add Tomato Juice. Add a dash or two of Worcestershire Sauce, Tabasco, Salt, and Pepper. Garnish with a Celery Stalk.

Try a Trio of Stews Made the Slow-Cooker Way

2008-05-19T10:05:00.001+07:00

There's nothing like a good, hot, home-cooked meal on a cold winter night. When properly prepared, a well-made stew is rich in flavor and texture, its ingredients bound together in a glossy sauce. Try one of these three satisfying stews, which you make in a slow cooker. (As with any stew, the leftovers taste even better the next day!)

Old-Fashioned Beef Stew
If you make only one dish in a slow cooker, let it be a good old-fashioned American stew full of fork-tender cubes of meat and chunks of fresh vegetables held together in a rich, flavorful gravy.

Preparation time: 30 minutes

Cooking time: Low 8 to 10 hours

Yield: 6 servings

Salt and pepper

3 pounds of your favorite cut of beef for stew, like chuck, cut into 1-1/2 inch cubes

3 tablespoons olive or canola oil

1 large onion, cut in half and sliced thin

3 cups beef broth

3 carrots, peeled and sliced into 1/4-inch rounds

3 large potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes

1 bay leaf

1/2 teaspoon whole black peppercorns

1 cup canned tomato sauce

1 teaspoon dried thyme

2 cups frozen peas

1 tablespoon minced fresh parsley

1. Lightly spray a 6-quart slow cooker with vegetable oil cooking spray.

2. Salt and pepper the beef. Heat the olive oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Brown the meat in batches. Remove to a large plate and continue browning the remaining meat. Add the onion and cook until soft. Remove the onion from the pan. Pour 1 cup of the beef broth into the pan, bring to a simmer, and scrape off any browned particles. Remove from heat and set aside.

3. Layer the carrots, potatoes, and cooked onions in the slow cooker. Top with the browned beef, bay leaf, and black peppercorns. In a large mixing bowl, combine the liquid from the skillet, the remaining 2 cups broth, the tomato sauce, and thyme. Pour over the meat and vegetables.

4. Cover and cook on low for 8 to 10 hours, or until the beef and vegetables are fork-tender.

5. Stir in the peas 15 to 20 minutes before serving and cook on high. Add salt to taste. Stir in the parsley before serving.

Per serving: Calories 604 (From Fat 210); Fat 23g (Saturated 6.5g); Cholesterol 111mg; Sodium 902mg; Carbohydrate 36g (Dietary Fiber 7g); Protein 60g.

Chicken Cacciatore
Cacciatore refers to hearty, stewlike dishes usually prepared with onions, tomatoes, mushrooms, wine, and peppers, ingredients that an Italian hunter might have in his pack. Cacciatore, in fact, is Italian for "hunter's style."

Chicken is an exciting addition to this popular Italian-American one-pot meal that is great served over cooked white rice. Make this dish with bone-in chicken. Slow simmering in the slow cooker brings out maximum flavor.

Preparation time: 25 minutes

Cooking time: Low 8 to 9 hours

Yield: 4 servings

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 chicken (3 to 3-1/2 pounds), cut into serving pieces

1 large onion, coarsely chopped

2 cloves garlic, sliced very thin

1/2 cup dry white wine

1 small pickled cherry or jalapeño pepper, seeded and coarsely chopped (optional)

10-ounce package white mushrooms, washed and sliced thin

2 cups canned crushed tomatoes

1 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper

1 tablespoon minced parsley

1. Lightly spray a 6-quart slow cooker with vegetable oil cooking spray.

2. Heat the olive oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Brown the chicken, onion, and garlic. Place the browned chicken in the slow cooker. Add the wine to the skillet, bring to a simmer, and scrape off any browned particles. Pour over the chicken in the slow cooker.

3. Add the cherry pepper, mushrooms, wine, tomatoes, salt, and pepper to the slow cooker.

4. Cover and cook on low for 8 to 9 hours, or until the chicken is tender. Sprinkle with parsley before serving.

To reduce the fat content, remove and discard the chicken skin before browning.

Per serving: Calories 504 (From Fat 261); Fat 29g (Saturated 6g); Cholesterol 113mg; Sodium 1192mg; Carbohydrate 13g (Dietary Fiber 3g); Protein 40g.

Moroccan Vegetable Stew with Couscous
Some of the most exciting Mediterranean cooking is found in the southern Mediterranean basin of northern Africa. In the savory, exotic cooking of Morocco, fragrant stews and light, fluffy couscous are standard fare.

Preparation time: 25 minutes

Cooking time: Low 8 to 9 hours

Yield: 6 servings

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 leeks, trimmed and washed well, white and light green parts only, sliced into thin rounds (See Figure 1.)

1-1/2 teaspoons ground cumin

1 teaspoon paprika

1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 can (28 ounces) plum tomatoes

1 can (14-1/2 ounces) chicken broth, or 1-3/4 cups homemade

3 medium carrots, cut into 1/2-inch pieces

3 small zucchini, cut into 1/2-inch pieces

2 large potatoes, peeled and cut into 3/4-inch cubes

2 stalks celery, cut into 1/2-inch pieces

1 can (19 ounces) chickpeas, drained

1 teaspoon salt

Pinch freshly ground black pepper

1 package (10 ounces) frozen lima beans

1 package (10 ounces) couscous

1. Lightly spray a 4- to 6-quart slow cooker with vegetable oil cooking spray.

2. Heat the olive oil in a medium nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add the leeks and sauté over low heat for 3 to 4 minutes, or until soft. Add the cumin, paprika, and cinnamon and sauté for an additional minute. Place the sautéed leeks in the slow cooker.

3. Drain the tomatoes, reserving the liquid. Cut up the tomatoes. Mix the tomatoes, reserved liquid, chicken broth, carrots, zucchini, potatoes, celery, chickpeas, salt, and pepper in the slow cooker.

4. Cover and cook on low for 8 to 9 hours, or until the vegetables are tender.

5. Before serving, add the lima beans and cook on high for 15 minutes.

6. Serve the stew with cooked couscous, prepared according to package directions.

Per serving: Calories 449 (From Fat 55); Fat 6g (Saturated 1g); Cholesterol 0mg; Sodium 1135mg; Carbohydrate 82g (Dietary Fiber 11g); Protein 17g.

Figure 1: Leeks are very sandy — keep rinsing!

Moroccan Chicken in a Pressure Cooker

2008-05-19T10:03:00.000+07:00

Indian Butter Chicken in a Pressure Cooker

2008-05-19T10:02:00.000+07:00

This pressure cooker version of Indian Butter Chicken is simple to prepare, large enough to feed a crowd, and is big on flavor and aroma. White rice is a perfect complement to this creamy, buttery dish!

Indian Butter Chicken

Preparation time: 15 minutes

Cooking time: 8 minutes under pressure

Pressure level: High

Yield: 6 servings

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

Salt and pepper

1-1/2 pounds boneless chicken breast cut into 3/4-inch cubes

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 large onion, minced

1 tablespoon minced or grated gingerroot

1 small jalapeño pepper, seeded and minced

2 teaspoons garam masala spice blend*

1 can (6 ounces) tomato paste

2 cups chicken broth

1/2 cup heavy cream

2 tablespoons minced cilantro

3 tablespoons butter, cut into small pieces

1 lime, cut into 6 pieces

1. Generously salt and pepper the chicken. Heat the vegetable oil in a pressure cooker over high heat. Add the onion, gingerroot, and jalapeño. Cook for 3 minutes. Add the chicken and cook until no longer pink on the outside (chicken will still be raw on the inside). Add the tomato paste and chicken broth. Stir well.

2. Cover and bring to high pressure over high heat. Lower the heat to stabilize the pressure. Cook for 8 minutes.

3. Remove from the heat. Let the pressure drop using a quick-release method.

4. Unlock and remove the cover.

5. Over low heat, stir in the heavy cream. Add the cilantro and butter. Stir until the butter melts. Serve with white rice or Yellow Split Pea and Basmati Pilaf.

6. Squeeze juice from the lime wedges over the servings.

*Garam masala spice blend is readily available at most Indian and specialty food stores. You can make your own by combining 3/4 teaspoon ground cumin, 1/2 teaspoon paprika, 1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon, 1/8 teaspoon ground cayenne, 1/8 teaspoon ground cloves, and 1 bay leaf, crumbled, in a small bowl. Store in an airtight jar.

Arroz con Pollo (Rice with Chicken) in a Pressure Cooker

2008-05-19T10:00:00.000+07:00

Arroz con pollo (chicken and rice) is a Spanish classic enjoyed with many variations in most Spanish-speaking countries. This dish traditionally is made in a shallow paella pan, but many Spanish cooks prefer to use their convenient and quick pressure cooker.

Arroz con Pollo

Preparation time: 15 minutes

Cooking time: 7 minutes under pressure

Pressure setting: High

Yield: 4 to 6 servings

Salt and pepper

One 3-pound chicken, skin removed, cut into eighths

3 tablespoons olive oil

1 chorizo sausage, thinly sliced (optional)

1/2 cup white wine

1 small onion, chopped

2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced

1 red bell pepper, cored, seeded, and diced

1 large ripe tomato, peeled, or 2 canned plum tomatoes, seeded and coarsely chopped

1 cup uncooked long-grain white rice

1/2 cup frozen peas

3 cups chicken stock or broth

1 teaspoon salt

1. Generously salt and pepper the chicken pieces.

2. Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a pressure cooker over medium-high heat. Brown the chicken in batches. Set aside on a large plate. Add the chorizo, if desired, and cook for 1 minute. Return the browned chicken to the pressure cooker. Add the wine and cook for 2 minutes. Remove to a plate with any juices and set aside.

3. Heat the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil in the pressure cooker. Add the onion, garlic, red bell pepper, and tomato. Cook until the onion is soft. Add the rice and cook for 1 minute. Add the peas, stock, salt, chicken, and chorizo, with any accumulated juices. Stir well.

4. Cover and bring to high pressure over high heat. Lower the heat to stabilize the pressure. Cook for 7 minutes.

5. Remove from the heat. Let the pressure drop using a quick-release method.

6. Unlock and remove the cover.

7. Fluff the rice and serve.

Tamales, a Mexican Feast-Day Treat

2008-05-19T09:51:00.002+07:00

Tamale-making, like tamale-eating, is an activity meant to be shared. In Mexico, tamales have been a fiesta food since the Indians first offered them to the gods. These labor-intensive, stuffed, and steamed packages are traditionally prepared by groups, in a sort of preparty party. The holiday they are most closely associated with in Mexico is All Saints' Day, while in America, tamales are a Christmas tradition.

Wrapping a tamale
Before you can unwrap and enjoy the delicious filling of a tamale, you first need to create the tidy cornhusk packages. Just follow these steps (and have a look at Figure 1):

1. Soak the dried cornhusks in hot water for 2 hours or overnight.

2. Drain the cornhusks on paper towels. Cut out 9-inch squares of aluminum foil. You'll need one for each tamale.

3. To wrap the tamales, spread 1 or 2 husks lengthwise on the counter with the narrow end pointing away from you. Spread about 2-1/2 tablespoons of filling down the center, leaving about 2 inches bare at the top of the husk.

4. Fold over the sides and then the ends to enclose the filling. Place the folded tamale on a square of foil and fold over the foil to enclose the package. (You can also close the tamale with a strip of cornhusk; see the recipe for Green Corn Tamales for instructions.) Repeat with the remaining filling and additional cornhusks.

Figure 1: Wrapping a tamale.
Banana leaves also make excellent wrappers for tamales. To use, hold the leaves in your hands, and run the leaves directly over a stovetop gas or electric burner on low heat or place in a dry skillet for a few seconds. This process softens the leaves, makes them fragrant, and brightens the green color. Cut them into 9-inch squares, trimming out the tough center stem. Fill, as with tamales made from cornhusks, and wrap the stuffed banana leaf in foil to enclose.

Steaming the tamales
Small batches of tamales can fit into a vegetable steamer basket, but for larger quantities, you need a steamer, which is a large pot with a perforated portion on top for the tamales.

If you don't have a steamer, you can improvise by balancing a rack or colander on top of one or two empty cans or inverted coffee cups that are set in a large pasta or soup pot. Make sure that the water doesn't touch the bottom of the rack.

Always keep an eye on the pot while the tamales are steaming so that the water doesn't get too low or evaporate entirely. And always line the steamer tray with extra husks to cushion the cooking process.

Celebrating the corn harvest
Mastering tamale making is really just a matter of getting organized and setting aside the time, preferably with a group of friends, to dig in and cook. Try your hand at tamale-making with this recipe for Green Corn Tamales. The corn harvest is celebrated all over Latin America with different versions of these simple packets of sweet, fresh corn wrapped in corn husks. They're a good choice for the beginning tamale maker because they don't contain masa. These tamales are also a great choice for a party because everybody loves them. The flavors are simple and sweet.

The green in Green Corn Tamales means that the corn is fresh rather than dried. It doesn't refer to the color of the corn, although fresh husks are green.

Green Corn Tamales

Special tool: Steamer or pot fitted with a rack

Preparation time:15 minutes (does not include time to soften the corn husks)

Cooking time: 1 hour and 15 minutes

Yield:10 to 12 tamales, or 6 servings
3 tablespoons butter
1/2 cup hominy grits
3 cups canned corn, undrained (two 12-ounce cans)
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon pepper
Pinch of sugar, if necessary
1/2 cup milk
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 8-ounce package dried corn husks, softened (see "Wrapping a tamale" earlier in this article)

Garnishes: Fresh salsa and sour cream

1. Melt the butter in a large skillet over moderate heat. Add the grits and cook for about 4 minutes, until golden. Add the corn and its juices, the salt, pepper, the sugar if the corn isn't sweet, and the milk, and simmer until the mixture is thick as oatmeal, about 7 minutes. Set aside to cool until touchable. Then stir in the baking powder and reserve in the refrigerator.

2. Wrap the tamales in corn husks according to the instructions in "Wrapping a tamale" earlier in this article. You can skip the step of wrapping the package in foil. Instead, make ties for the tamales by cutting a few of the moistened husks into 6 by 1/4-inch strips. Use the strips to tie the "package" closed with a double knot.

3. In a steamer or a pot fitted with a rack, make a bed for the tamales by laying the remaining corn husks on the bottom of the rack. Layer the tamales upright and steam over low heat for 1 hour. Remove from the steamer and let rest 10 minutes. Serve hot with the garnishes in bowls at the table.

For sweetened fresh corn tamales, add 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon, 1/4 teaspoon cloves, 1/4 teaspoon nutmeg, and 1/2 cup raisins to the skillet when you add the corn.

For a savory touch and some color, stir roasted and diced red or green bell peppers into the corn.

Celebrate your own corn harvest by substituting 10 ears of fresh corn, with the kernels scraped off the cob and uncooked, in the Green Corn Tamales. Add about 1/2 cup cream. Save the green husks for wrapping, and then you'll realize how these tamales got their name.

Salmon Marinated in Ginger and Cilantro

2008-05-19T09:49:00.000+07:00

The following appetizer recipe is great for those days when you have a million other things to do before the party starts. Just don't read the recipe and assume we left out the most important step.

But it's raw, you say. Actually no, it isn't.

The acid in the marinade — which comes from the lime and vinegar — actually "cooks" the fish. Just be sure not to leave the salmon in the marinade too long. (Also, note that this marinade does not have the same effect on dense cuts of meat or poultry.) This dish calls for marinating for 4 to 5 hours, so you can put everything together in the early afternoon and have it for dinner.

Tools: Chef's knife, grater, large non-reactive bowl (glass, plastic, or ceramic, but not metal)

Preparation time: About 25 minutes

Marinating time: 4 to 5 hours

Yield: 6 to 8 appetizer servings

Ingredients:

2 pounds skinless salmon fillets (have your butcher remove the skin and bones)

1/2 cup fresh lime juice

1 large onion, thinly sliced

3 tablespoons white wine vinegar

3 tablespoons olive oil

2 tablespoons chopped cilantro

1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger

1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes

Salt and black pepper to taste

Lettuce for garnish

1. Using a pair of tweezers or your fingers, remove any small bones (called pin bones) in the salmon fillets.

2. Slice salmon thinly (1/4 inch or less) widthwise, leaving strips about 2 inches long. Place the strips in a large bowl.

3. Add the onion, lime juice, vinegar, oil, cilantro, ginger, red pepper flakes, salt, and pepper. Stir gently and cover with plastic wrap. Refrigerate for 4 to 5 hours.

Taste for seasoning. (You may need more salt; if so, blend it in thoroughly.)

4. Line small serving plates with lettuce of your choice and place a serving of salmon over the lettuce. Serve immediately.

In some cases, a recipe gives you a choice between a dried or a fresh herb. However, substitutions don't work with a few ingredients. You cannot substitute dried cilantro for fresh, or powdered ginger for fresh ginger root. The fresh ingredient tastes entirely different from the dried one. Dried parsley is another herb that has its limitations. Always use fresh, chopped parsley when sprinkling it on a dish as a garnish.

Cozy Up with Chicken and Corn Soup

2008-05-19T09:44:00.000+07:00

Hale and hardy, Chicken and Corn Soup is a traditional American soup that comes from the farm kitchens of the Pennsylvania Dutch. Serve up this comforting homemade soup to your family after a day of outdoor activity on a cold day.

Chicken and Corn Soup

Yield: 6 to 8 servings

Level: Easy

Preparation time: 10 minutes

Cooking time: 25 minutes

5-1/2 cups chicken broth

1/2 pound boneless chicken breasts, cut into bite-size pieces, or 1 cup cooked, cubed chicken

1-1/4 cups fresh corn kernels, or one 10-ounce package frozen corn kernels

2 ounces fine egg noodles, about 1-1/4 cups

Salt to taste, about 1/2 to 3/4 teaspoon

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 to 2 hard-boiled eggs, chopped

1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley

In a large pot over medium heat, combine the broth, chicken, and corn. Cover partially and simmer or until the chicken is cooked, about 15 minutes.

Add the noodles and cook until the noodles are tender, about 8 to 10 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.

Remove from the heat. Add the hard-boiled eggs and parsley.

Note: Hard-boiled eggs don't freeze well, so if you want to make a batch of this soup and freeze any leftovers, add the chopped, hard-boiled eggs to individual serving bowls, not to the pot. Then leftovers can be frozen without the eggs.

Per Serving: Calories 124.8; Protein 9.8g; Carbohydrates 11.5g; Dietary fiber 1.4g; Total fat 4.7g; Saturated fat 1.1g; Cholesterol 52.5mg; Sodium 855mg.

Knowing How to Bake Cheesecakes

2008-05-18T16:44:00.000+07:00

Who can resist the appeal of a rich, creamy, satin-smooth cheesecake? Because a cheesecake is one luxury that is well within reach, easy to make, and freezes well, it is worth preparing for any occasion.

For a cheesecake to taste smooth and creamy, the batter must be smooth and creamy at all times. The best way to achieve this is to have all ingredients at room temperature before you start baking. Using a countertop mixer with a paddle attachment, beat the cream cheese until it's smooth and soft before adding the other ingredients. If you use a handheld mixer, use it on a low speed so you don't incorporate too much air into the batter, which can cause your cheesecake to crack.

Another popular method is to dump all the ingredients into a blender or food processor and give it a whir for a minute or so; then just pour and bake. This method can incorporate a bit too much air, so if you try it, remove the blender from the motor base and thunk it on the countertop a few times to encourage the air bubbles to rise to the surface and escape.

Whichever method you choose for mixing the batter, stop several times and scrape the sides and the bottom of the container to be sure your batter is lump-free and that no ingredients are stuck to the bottom or sides.

Coping with cracks
Cracks in a cheesecake, whether they happen during baking or cooling, can be caused by several different factors: extreme temperature changes, an oven temperature that's too high, too much air in the batter, baking for too long a time, or being placed in a drafty place to cool. Sometimes cracks just happen, despite your best efforts. But worry not — the taste of the cake won't be affected. If you're serving the cheesecake to guests, and appearance is important, here are a few tips to help disguise those cracks:

Top the cheesecake with sliced fruit. Any fresh fruit will do, but f you use bananas or peaches, remember to toss them in a bit of lemon juice to prevent them from browning before serving.
Spread the top with a thin layer of sour cream. This ingredient adds to the richness of the cheesecake and conceals any imperfections.
Drizzle melted chocolate on top. Dip a fork in melted chocolate and drizzle a pattern on top of the cheesecake. The chocolate gives the cheesecake a new look. (When hasn't chocolate made everything a little bit better?)
Baking a great-looking cheesecake
A cheesecake is baked in a springform pan. It's a good idea to place the springform on a baking sheet with a lip on all four sides. A springform pan can sometimes leak, despite your best attempt to make sure it's tightly fastened. Placing the pan on a baking sheet will prevent a leaky springform from making a mess in your oven. It's also an easy and safer way to take the cheesecake in and out of the oven, preventing any surprise openings of the springform. If you don't have a baking sheet with a lip, you can wrap the bottom of the springform pan in aluminum foil to seal off any potential leaky cracks.

To tell if your cheesecake is done, observe the top surface carefully. For most cheesecakes, the edges of the cake puff up slightly and may turn faintly golden (a golden brown cheesecake is undesirable). The top should also be dull, not shiny, and when you tap the sides, they should move, but not have the jiggle of liquid. The center should be softer than the edges. The cake will rise slightly during baking, but when it cools, it will settle and solidify. If any cracks appear, they will get smaller as the cake cools and sinks down. You can also carefully run a butter knife around the edge of the cheesecake when it comes out of the oven. Then, as the cake shrinks as it cools, it won't stick to the side of the pan.

You can cool your cheesecake by removing it from the oven, or you can just turn off the oven and crack the oven door. Let the cheesecake cool to room temperature before chilling it in the refrigerator for at least 3 to 4 hours, or preferably overnight, before serving.

Slicing the cheesecake

Slicing a cheesecake can be messy. The cake has a tendency to cling to the knife, so making neat slices can be quite a challenge. One solution is to run the knife under hot water after each slice is made. This keeps the knife clean, and the warm knife slices neatly through each piece. Of course, if you're cutting the cheesecake at the table, this method won't work. Instead, use two knives: one to cut the cheesecake and the other to scrape the knife clean after each slice.

A great trick for cutting a cheesecake is to use dental floss or heavy thread. Cut a piece of floss the diameter of the cake, plus enough to wrap around your fingers. Simply pull the thread taut between your hands and press it down all the way through the cake. Release the thread in one hand and pull it out with the other. Repeat, cutting the cake like the spokes of a wheel. It makes a great topic of conversation for your guests.

Homemade Pie Dough

2008-05-18T16:41:00.000+07:00

When one thinks of the old-fashioned American farmhouse pies, we usually envision one of those Norman Rockwell, golden, dome-shaped delights. This lovely, puffed, golden crust is achieved by blending the right amount of butter and vegetable shortening (you can use lard rather than shortening, but it's harder to find). The following recipe uses all-vegetable shortening, such as Crisco. You may want to experiment by substituting some butter for the shortening and see the difference. Some cooks prefer a blend of shortening and butter 70 to 30 percent or even 50-50 — butter adds flavor to the crust.

To make a really great pie crust, you need to understand what this blend of simple ingredients is all about. Pie doughs have different densities and different elasticities. Making pie dough may sound daunting, but the good news is that you can tackle this topic one dough at a time and enjoy some terrific homemade pies along the way.

American-style pie dough is nothing more than flour, fat (butter or lard), water, and salt — some cooks add an egg, but it isn't necessary. The main difference between American pie doughs is the type and amount of fat in them. When making dough, you cut butter or lard into little pieces and partially mix it with flour — you want to have tiny nuggets of butter or lard throughout the dough. These nuggets melt while baking and give the crust its wonderful flaky quality.

Tools: Electric mixer (optional), plastic wrap, 9-inch pie plate, rolling pin

Preparation time: 10 minutes (plus 2 hours refrigeration)

Baking time: None

Yield: Dough for 1 pie in a 9-inch pie plate

Ingredients:

1 1/4 cups (10 ounces) shortening

2 cups (8 ounces) cake flour

2 cups (8 ounces) flour

1 teaspoon salt

1 cup (8 ounces) ice water

1/2-inch pat of butter, for greasing the pie dish

1. With a knife, cut the shortening into nickel-size pieces and place them in a large bowl. Add the flour and mix only enough to combine, or coat, the shortening nuggets with flour.

2. Add the salt and, while continuing to mix, drizzle in the ice water — blend just until the dough comes together or starts to look like a thick paste.

3. Remove dough from the bowl and place it on a flat surface that is dusted with flour. With your hands, pat down the dough into a rough rectangle about 1 inch thick. Cover in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 2 hours. (The shortening needs to chill and solidify, which makes the dough easier to roll out and work with.)

When a recipe calls for ice water, make sure that you measure only the water, without the ice cubes, or your measurements will be off.

Rolling out the dough and laying it in the pie pan
1. Using your fingers, spread the butter back and forth over the pie plate until well covered.

2. Remove the dough from the refrigerator and place it on a lightly floured flat surface. Cut the dough in half and place half into the refrigerator. Using a rolling pin, roll out half of the dough into a circle that's a little bigger than the circumference of the pie plate — that is, roughly an 11-inch circle for a 9-inch pie plate. Dust the dough and the counter frequently to prevent sticking — but use very little flour each time.

3. To lift the dough, place a rolling pin close to an edge of the pie plate. Lift about 3 inches of the edge of the dough up onto the rolling pin. Slowly roll the pin towards you while lifting the dough.

4. To lay the dough over a buttered pie plate, gently place the rolling pin over one edge of the plate and unroll the dough over the entire plate. Then lift the edges of the dough so that gravity lowers it into the bottom of the plate. With your fingers, press the dough into the corners of the plate. The dough should cover the sides, leaving about an inch or two of overlap on the edge.

5. After adding the filling, remove the other half of the dough from the refrigerator, roll it thin, and cover the pie. Squeeze the edges of the dough together and crimp to form a fluted edge.

A blend of delicate cake flour and all-purpose flour works best for pie dough because it blends better with the shortening. Cake flour is a low-gluten flour that is excellent for many types of baking because it's exceptionally light.

Peanut Butter and Chocolate Cheesecake Bites

2008-05-18T16:39:00.000+07:00

This very rich and very creamy dessert is perfect for a crowd event. Cheesecake itself symbolizes holiday fun, but this recipe is great year-round. Because they're bite size, they're easy to serve — a big plus!

Peanut Butter and Chocolate Cheesecake Bites

Preparation time: 40 minutes

Cooking time: 25 to 30 minutes

Chill time: 1 to 24 hours

Yield: 24 servings

1-1/2 cups finely crushed chocolate wafer cookies

1/4 cup butter, melted

2/3 cup, 2 tablespoons sugar, divided

24 chocolate kisses

4 8-ounce packages (32 ounces) cream cheese, softened

4 large eggs

1 teaspoon vanilla

1 cup chunky peanut butter

2/3 cup semisweet chocolate chips

2 teaspoons shortening

1. Preheat the oven to 325 degrees F. Line 24 2-1/2-inch muffin cups (in pans) with foil liners.

2. In a small bowl, combine the crushed wafers, butter, and 2 tablespoons of the sugar.

3. Divide the mixture evenly among the 24 lined cups. Press it into the bottom of the cups, creating the crusts.

4. In each cup, place a chocolate kiss with the point facing up.

5. In a medium bowl, beat the cream cheese and remaining 2/3 cup of sugar until smooth.

6. Beat in the eggs and vanilla, just until blended.

7. Beat in the peanut butter.

8. Gently spoon about 1/4 cup of the cream cheese mixture over the kiss in each cup. The cup should be full.

9. Bake for 25 minutes or until the filling is set. Remove the pans from the oven and cool them on a wire rack for 30 minutes.

10. Melt the chocolate chips and shortening in a microwave on high power until smooth.

11. Remove the cheesecakes from the foil liners and place them on a cookie sheet. Drizzle the melted chocolate over the cheesecakes.

12. Cover the cookie sheet tightly with foil or plastic wrap and refrigerate it for 1 to 24 hours.

Whenever you cook any kind of cheesecake, always use a water bath. A water bath is simply a pan of water that you place on the rack underneath your cheesecake. (The cheesecake doesn't actually sit in this water bath.) The water bath creates humidity in the oven and helps prevent the cheesecake from cracking on top. When you're cooking with a water bath, you may need to slightly extend the cooking time due to the added moisture.

Berry Good Lemonade

2008-05-18T16:37:00.000+07:00

Lemonade and summer fun go hand in hand. The addition of blackberry puree gives this old favorite a new twist. Enjoy this beverage, which is rich in vitamin C, after a leisurely walk on a warm summer evening with family or friends.

Blackberry Lemonade

Tools: Medium saucepan or pot, blender or food processor, strainer, large pitcher

Preparation time: 30 minutes

Cooking time: 10 minutes

Yield: 10 servings

1-pound package of frozen blackberries

8 teaspoons plus 1-1/2 cups granulated sugar

1/3 cup plus 3 quarts water

2 cups freshly squeezed lemon juice

1. Place blackberries, 8 teaspoons of the granulated sugar, and 1/3 cup of the water in a medium saucepan or pot, place over medium heat, and let come to a boil. Immediately reduce heat to low and simmer, stirring often, for about 10 minutes.

2. Remove from heat and let cool to room temperature.

3. Pour blackberry mixture into a blender or food processor and puree for about 1 minute.

4. Pour through a strainer to remove seeds and pulp. Pour into large pitcher.

5. Add to the pitcher the remaining 1-1/2 cups of granulated sugar, the lemon juice, and the remaining 3 cups of water. Mix. Pour over ice and enjoy!

Depending on how you like your lemonade to taste, you might want to add more lemon juice for a more tart flavor or more sugar for a sweeter flavor.

Jewish Cuisine: Sweet Foods on Rosh Hashanah

2008-05-18T16:33:00.000+07:00

The Jewish New Year (Rosh Hashanah) menu is replete with sweet dishes. Fruit, sweet vegetables, and honey appear even in some main dishes and give the holiday meals their unique character. Wrap up a meal with this delicious Orange Hazelnut Honey Cake.

To ensure mellow meals and prevent a bitter future, some people avoid sour foods like vinegar and lemon juice. Others tone down peppery dishes, using fewer chiles than usual or omitting them.

Some say the Israelites adopted the idea of celebrating the new year with something sweet from the Persians. In ancient Persia, it was customary to eat sweet foods for the new year. Legend relates that one of the biblical prophets introduced this tradition to the Israelites. The sweet custom remains central to Rosh Hashanah festivities to this day.

Honeycake for happiness
Beginning the year on a sweet note seems to be taken literally by custom. Honey is used liberally, not only in desserts like honey cake, but even as a dip to begin the meal. Around the world, Jews start off their holiday meal by dipping apple wedges in honey. Some Jews dip slices of challah, as well.

Honey was of great importance during the biblical era. There was no sugar then. The Torah frequently describes Israel as "the land of milk and honey," because honey represented the good life. For many people, it still does.

Honey cake is one of the most convenient desserts to bake at home because it keeps so well — at least a week and sometimes longer. Unlike most cakes, it tastes even better two days after it is baked. The honey enables it to retain its good flavor and texture.

Ashkenazic Jews began the tradition of serving honey cake for Rosh Hashanah, but Jews of most origins have adopted it. Spices, especially cinnamon and cloves, are favorite accents. In Israel, coffee, cocoa, and citrus zest are popular, too. This cake doesn't have much oil or many eggs and is fairly low in saturated fat.

Orange Hazelnut Honey Cake

Special tools: Mixer, 8 x 4-inch loaf pan

Preparation time: 30 minutes

Cooking time: 55 minutes

Yield: 8 to 10 servings

Keeping kosher: Pareve

1 teaspoon instant coffee granules
1/3 cup hot water
1-1/2 cups flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
Small pinch of ground cloves
2 eggs
1/2 cup sugar
1/2 cup honey
1/3 cup vegetable oil
1-1/2 teaspoons grated orange zest, orange part only
1/2 cup hazelnuts, coarsely chopped

1. Preheat oven to 325 degrees Fahrenheit. Lightly grease an 8 x 4-inch loaf pan, line it with parchment paper or waxed paper, and grease paper.

2. In a cup, dissolve instant coffee in hot water. Let cool. Sift flour with baking powder, baking soda, cinnamon, and cloves.

3. Beat eggs lightly in large bowl of mixer. Add sugar and honey and beat until mixture is very smooth and lightened in color. Gradually add oil and beat until blended. Add orange zest.

4. Stir in flour mixture alternately with coffee, each in two batches. Stir in hazelnuts.

5. Pour batter into prepared pan. Bake for 55 minutes, or until a cake tester inserted in cake comes out clean. Cool in pan for about 15 minutes. Turn out onto rack and carefully peel off paper.

6. When cake is completely cool, wrap it tightly in foil and keep it at room temperature. Serve in thin slices.

Carrots connote wealth
Carrots are popular items on the Rosh Hashanah menu because they stand for prosperity. Sliced carrots resemble gold coins. They might be used to garnish a fish, added to a meat entree, or served as a side dish.

Other vegetable favorites are sweet potatoes and winter squash because of their sweet taste. To accentuate this quality, Ashkenazic cooks like to glaze them with honey. Certain Sephardic Jews stew them with cinnamon and sugar.

Fruit foreshadows a sweet future
In addition to the traditional appetizer of apples dipped in honey, fruit might appear anywhere in the meal. Moroccan Jews enjoy an additional appetizer of syrupy quince, an apple-like fruit that is always served cooked. Tzimmes, a renowned stew from Jews of Central European origin, may include prunes, carrots, sweet potatoes, and beef.

Tzimmes can sometimes be quite elaborate. Therefore, the Yiddish word tzimmes also gave rise to the American-Jewish slang expression, "Don't make a tzimmes out of it," meaning, "Don't make a big fuss or hullabaloo."

Tzimmes should be moist but not soupy. If you would like a thicker sauce, choose one of the following traditional techniques:

Baking: Bake the finished tzimmes uncovered in a casserole dish in a 350 oven for 15 to 30 minutes.
Thickening with a flour slurry: Heat the stew until the sauce begins to bubble. Remove it from the heat. Stir 1 tablespoon flour with 2 tablespoons apricot soaking liquid in a medium bowl. Gradually stir in about 1 cup of the sauce. Return the flour mixture to the pan and simmer it, stirring very gently, for 5 minutes.

Enjoying Coffee, Italian Style

2008-05-16T10:11:00.000+07:00

Italian coffee bars rarely have a menu or printed sign listing all their coffee drinks. So it helps to know what you like. Here are descriptions of the major Italian coffee drinks. And, yes, you'll discover the difference between a latte and a cappuccino.

Espresso: A single shot of espresso, measuring 1-1/2 ounces. Served in a warmed demitasse — a small cup that holds about 3 ounces. To take the chill off ceramic demitasse cups, fill them with hot tap water while waiting for the espresso machine to heat up. Fancy machines have a built-in warming plate for cups.
Espresso Doppio: A "double" shot of espresso, measuring about 3 ounces. Served in a large demitasse cup or a very small coffee cup.
Espresso Ristretto: A "short" or "restricted" espresso of about 1 ounce. Made by cutting short the water flow when brewing. Very syrupy and intense.
Espresso Lungo: The opposite of a ristretto, made by adding an ounce or two of hot water to a single espresso to make a milder or "long" cup. When diluted with 3 or 4 ounces of hot water, this drink is sometimes called an Americano, because it has a similar intensity as American-style brewed coffee.
Espresso Macchiato: A single espresso "marked" by a tablespoon of frothed milk. Perfect when you don't want all the milk used in a cappuccino or latte but aren't ready for plain espresso.
Espresso con Panna: A single shot of espresso with a small dollop of whipped cream. Very decadent and very delicious. Especially popular in the afternoon in Italy.
Espresso Romano: Espresso served with lemon peel. Italians turn up their noses at this American invention for good reason — the acidity in the lemon peel detracts from the flavor of the espresso. Real Italian restaurants serve espresso as is, with the sugar bowl on the side and nothing else.
Espresso Corretto: A single espresso that has been "corrected" with a splash of brandy, grappa, or other spirit. Some Italians have this for breakfast. Not recommended if you want to keep your job elsewhere in the world.
Cappuccino: A single espresso topped with equal amounts of steamed milk and frothed milk. Steamed milk has been heated; frothed milk is both heated and aerated and has a stiff, foamy consistency. Often dusted with cocoa powder or ground cinnamon. Nutmeg, a common duster in America, is rarely used in Italy.
Caffe Latte: This translates as "coffee with milk" and is similar to the French cafe au lait or the Spanish cafe con leche. In Italy, the latte is a morning drink consumed at home rather than in coffee bars. It's usually made with brewed coffee (rather than espresso) and steamed milk. It doesn't contain any foam. Americans have adopted this drink as their own, partly because it's easier to charge $3 for a coffee drink in a large cup. Most American coffee bars use espresso and add much more milk than they do in Italy. Some American coffee bars also add frothed milk. A thin crown of frothed milk makes this drink similar to a cappuccino. When a lot of foamy milk is added, this drink is indistinguishable from a cappuccino.
Caffe Mocha: Italian companies make dozens of syrups that are traditionally used to make sodas. A shot of syrup is poured into a tall glass that is then filled with soda water or fruit juice. American coffee bars have adopted these flavorings, adding them to espresso, something most Italians would consider disgusting. A caffe mocha is made by adding about half an ounce of chocolate syrup to a single espresso. The flavored espresso is then topped with several ounces of steamed milk. The appeal of adding chocolate syrup to coffee is understandable. Adding vanilla, almond, or hazelnut syrup makes some sense, but raspberry or orange flavor would conflict with the coffee flavor.

Baked Apples with Butterscotch Topping

2008-05-16T10:08:00.000+07:00

Baked apples are a great treat to make in the fall when apples are in season, the evenings are getting cooler, and you want a hot, satisfying dessert. Look around your market for local apple varieties to try with this recipe.

Baked Apples with Butterscotch Topping

Preparation time: 20 minutes

Baking time: 45 to 60 minutes

Yield: 4 servings

4 baking apples (McIntosh, Rome Beauty, Golden Delicious, or Granny Smith)

Half of a lemon

1/2 cup raisins

2 tablespoons honey

3/4 cup chopped walnuts or pecans

1/2 cup butterscotch topping

1.Preheat the oven to 325 degrees.

2.Core the apples (don't cut them in half) using an apple corer. Remove the peel from the upper 1/3 of the apple. To prevent browning, rub the peeled part of the apple with the lemon and squeeze a few drops of lemon juice inside each cut apple. Place the apples in a 9-inch square baking dish. In a small bowl, combine the raisins, honey, and 2 tablespoons of the chopped nuts. Stuff each apple with the raisin mixture. Pour a little bit of water in the bottom of the pan, about 1/4-inch deep.

3.Bake, uncovered, until the apples are tender (not mushy), from 45 to 60 minutes, depending on the size of the apples. Let the apples cool for about 10 minutes before serving. Place each apple on a serving plate. Drizzle each apple with some of the sauce in the pan, the butterscotch topping, and the remaining nuts.

Per serving: Calories 426 (From Fat 138); Fat 15g (Saturated 2g); Cholesterol 0mg; Sodium 150mg; Carbohydrate 76g (Dietary Fiber 7g); Protein 5g.

Garden Greatness: Fresh Tomato Basil Soup

2008-05-16T10:04:00.000+07:00

Tomato and basil are perfect partners in everything, from pasta sauces to this superb soup. This soup is best in the summer when tomatoes are at their peak. During winter months, use plum tomatoes or costly ripe, imported tomatoes.

Fresh Tomato Basil Soup

Yield: 4 to 6 servings

Level: Easy

Tools: Food processor, blender, or hand blender

Preparation time: 15 minutes

Cooking time: 40 minutes

Freezes well

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 medium onion, chopped

1 plump clove garlic, minced

3-1/2 pounds ripe, fresh tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and coarsely chopped with juices

1/2 bay leaf

1 cup vegetable or chicken broth

Salt to taste, about 1/2 to 1 teaspoon

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons minced fresh basil or prepared pesto

1. In a large pot over medium heat, heat the olive oil. Add the onion and sauté, stirring occasionally, until the onion is tender and golden, about 10 minutes. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, for 1 minute.

2. Add the tomatoes and bay leaf, cover, and simmer until the tomatoes are very soft, about 30 minutes.

3. Remove the bay leaf. Puree in batches in a food processor until smooth. Alternatively, if you have a hand blender, leave the soup in the pot and blend.

4. Return the soup to the pot. Add the broth, and reheat until hot. Season with salt and pepper. Stir in the basil or pesto before serving.

Stir Up a Pot of Curried Zucchini Soup

2008-05-16T10:03:00.000+07:00

Most cooks might transform excess zucchini into muffins or tea breads. Try something new with this recipe for Curried Zucchini Soup. This remarkably easy recipe turns the summer squash into a delightfully spiced concoction that is tasty served hot or cold.

Curried Zucchini Soup

Yield: 6 servings

Level: Easy

Tools: Food processor, blender, or hand blender

Preparation time: 10 minutes

Cooking time: 35 to 45 minutes

Freezes well

2 tablespoons butter or olive oil

1 small onion, chopped

1 plump clove garlic, minced

2 teaspoons good quality curry powder (preferably Madras)

2 pounds, about 5 to 6, small zucchini, sliced

4 cups vegetable or chicken broth

2 pounds, about 5 to 6, small zucchini, sliced

Salt or to taste (start with about 3/4 teaspoon)

1/2 cup cream or half-and-half (optional)

Fresh chopped mint leaves or chopped chives for garnish

1. In a large pot over medium-low heat, melt the butter or add the olive oil. Add the onion and sauté, stirring occasionally, until translucent, about 5 to 7 minutes. Add the garlic and curry powder and sauté, stirring occasionally, for 2 minutes.

2. Add the broth and zucchini. Cover partially and simmer until the zucchini is very tender, about 20 to 25 minutes.

3. Puree the mixture in batches in a food processor or blender. Alternatively, if you have a hand blender , leave the soup in the pot and blend.

4. Taste, season with salt, and stir in the cream (if desired). Return the mixture to the pot and heat thoroughly over medium heat for about 5 to 10 minutes. Serve garnished with mint or chives.

This soup also tastes great cold. After you add the cream in Step 4, just cool the soup, chill in the refrigerator for 1-1/2 to 2 hours, then garnish and serve.

Ratatouille in a Pressure Cooker

2008-05-16T09:59:00.000+07:00

Ratatouille is a hearty vegetable stew from the Provence region of France, and you'll find many variations. This recipe uses a pressure cooker to cook up the brightly colored and flavorful vegetables that make Provence famous. Serve it as a main course with salad, cheese, and crusty bread, or serve it as a side dish with grilled meats or fish.

Ratatouille

Preparation time: 20 minutes

Cooking time: 4 minutes under pressure

Pressure level: High

Yield: 4 to 6 servings

3 tablespoons olive oil

1 medium onion, chopped

2 cloves garlic, peeled and thinly sliced

1 green bell pepper, cored, seeded, and diced

1 red bell pepper, cored, seeded, and diced

1 small zucchini, trimmed, quartered lengthwise, and diced

1 can (14-1/2 ounces) diced tomatoes

1/4 cup water

1/2 teaspoon dried thyme

1-1/2 teaspoons salt

1/4 teaspoon black pepper

1 large eggplant, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch cubes

2 tablespoons shredded basil

2 tablespoons minced flat-leaf Italian parsley

Salt and pepper to taste

2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

1. Heat the olive oil in a pressure cooker over medium-high heat. Add the onion, garlic, and the green and red bell peppers. Cook until the onion is soft.

2. Add the zucchini, tomatoes, water, thyme, 1-1/2 teaspoons salt, and 1/4 teaspoon black pepper. Cook for 2 minutes. Add the eggplant.

3. Cover the pressure cooker and bring to high pressure over high heat. Lower the heat to stabilize the pressure. Cook for 4 minutes.

4. Remove from the heat. Release the pressure with a quick-release method.

5. Unlock and remove the cover. Add the basil and parsley. Season with salt and black pepper. Stir in the vinegar. Serve hot or at room temperature.

Discovering Egg Substitutes for Vegetarian Cooking

2008-05-16T09:58:00.000+07:00

Recipes that call for eggs often can work just as well with substitute ingredients. You probably have many egg replacement possibilities in your refrigerator or kitchen cabinet.

Eggs serve a variety of functions in recipes. They often work as binders, holding the other ingredients together, as in a casserole or cake. Eggs also can act as leavening agents, providing lift and affecting texture. The purpose of the egg in a recipe determines what you can use as a substitute. In some cases, you can omit the egg altogether, and the recipe isn't noticeably affected.

Ousting eggs from baked goods
Eggs are used in baked goods for leavening, or lightness. They also may serve as a binder. The purpose the egg serves in the original recipe — as well as the amount of egg the recipe calls for — determines whether you need a substitute and, if so, which alternate ingredient will best serve the function of the egg in the recipe.

Flat foods such as pancakes and cookies don't rely on eggs for lift. In fact, in many cases, you can eliminate the egg without noticeably affecting the final product. That's especially true if the recipe calls for only one egg. If you do omit the egg, however, it's a good idea to add a tablespoon or two of additional liquid — soymilk, fruit juice, or water, for example — for each egg omitted to restore the recipe to its original moisture content.

When a recipe calls for three or more eggs — as many cakes do — the eggs perform a vital function and need to be replaced with an ingredient that can deliver a similar effect.

In recipes for baked goods that have a light, airy texture, replace eggs with an ingredient that provides lift. Any of the following ingredients can replace one whole egg in a recipe:

Half a small, ripe, mashed banana. This substitution gives the food a mild banana flavor, which can be nice in recipes for muffins, cookies, pancakes, and quick breads.
1/4 cup of any kind of tofu blended with the liquid ingredients in the recipe. Light or reduced-fat tofu cuts down on the fat and calories in the finished product.
1-1/2 teaspoons of a commercial vegetarian egg substitute, such as Ener-G Egg Replacer, mixed with 2 tablespoons of water. This product is a combination of vegetable starches and works wonderfully in virtually any recipe that calls for eggs. Natural foods stores sell it in 1-pound boxes.
1/4 cup of applesauce, canned pumpkin or squash, or pureed prunes. If you use these foods, know that, depending on the recipe, they may add a hint of flavor. If you want to give the food a lighter texture, add an extra 1/2 teaspoon of baking powder, because using fruit purees to replace eggs can make the finished product somewhat denser than the original recipe.
A heaping tablespoon of soy flour or bean flour mixed with a tablespoon of water. This mixture works similarly to vegetarian egg replacer.
2 tablespoons of cornstarch beaten with 2 tablespoons of water. This, too, works much like vegetarian egg replacer.
1 tablespoon of finely ground flaxseeds whipped with 1/4 cup of water. The flaxseeds gel and bind with the other ingredients.
Replacing eggs in casseroles, loaves, burger patties, and main dishes
Some recipes need an ingredient that binds all the other ingredients together. Eggs are famous for acting as the glue that holds meatballs, meatloaf, and casseroles together. Lacto vegetarian and vegan versions of these traditional foods need something to serve the same purpose. Fortunately, you have many options.

As you might suspect, your choice of ingredients to replace eggs in these types of foods depends on the degree of "stick" you need, as well as how the ingredient will blend with the other flavors in the recipe. Cooked oatmeal may work fine as a binder in a veggie burger patty, for example, but may not be a welcome addition to a vegetable casserole if you don't care for the flavor or texture that it brings to the dish.

If you're altering a traditional recipe, you have to experiment a bit to determine just the right amount of an ingredient to serve the purpose. A good starting point with most recipes in which egg acts as a binder is to use 2 to 3 tablespoons of any of the following ingredients (or a combination of them) to replace one whole egg. If the original recipe calls for two eggs, start with 4 to 6 tablespoons of egg substitute.

Tomato paste
Arrowroot starch
Potato starch
Cornstarch
Whole-wheat, unbleached, oat, or bean flour
Finely crushed breadcrumbs, cracker meal, or matzo meal
Quick-cooking rolled oats or cooked oatmeal
Mashed potatoes, mashed sweet potatoes, or instant potato flakes
You can also try 1/4 cup of any kind of tofu blended with 1 tablespoon of flour or 1-1/2 teaspoons vegetarian egg replacer mixed with 2 tablespoons of water.

Replacing eggs in sandwich fillings, salads, and scrambled eggs
Finding substitutes for eggs that are hidden in recipes is one thing; finding suitable substitutes for eggs that are more visible in foods is quite another. Fortunately, tofu looks remarkably like cooked egg whites and functions in much the same way in several popular recipes.

You can use chopped firm or extra-firm tofu in place of egg whites in egg salad. Use your favorite egg salad recipe, but substitute tofu for the hard-boiled eggs. You can even replace regular mayonnaise with soy mayonnaise for a vegan version.
Cubes of chopped firm tofu are a nice addition to a mixed green salad or spinach salad, standing in for the customary chopped hard-boiled eggs. You can also add chopped or minced tofu to a bowl of Chinese hot and sour soup.
Try scrambled tofu instead of scrambled eggs at breakfast. Natural foods stores stock "tofu scrambler" seasoning packets, which you may also find in the produce section of your regular supermarket, near the tofu. Many vegetarian cookbooks give recipes for scrambled tofu. The recipes usually include turmeric to give the tofu a yellow color similar to that of scrambled eggs. You can also use scrambled tofu to fill pita pockets or as a sandwich filling on hoagie rolls.

Using Soy Foods in Vegetarian Cooking

2008-05-16T09:55:00.000+07:00

Some of the best vegetarian specialty foods are made from soybeans, a type of legume. Soybeans can be used whole (as in tempeh) or soaked (as in soymilk and tofu) or can be processed and used to make a variety of specialty foods, such as veggie burgers, soy hotdogs, and soy cold cuts. (For a delicious introduction to soymilk, try the Winter Berry Smoothie recipe at the end of this article!)

Soy foods are associated with many health benefits. By adding soy foods to your diet, you may reduce your risk of breast, colon, and prostate cancer, and you may lower your blood cholesterol level. Soy foods can lessen your risk for coronary artery disease and osteoporosis and can help you control your blood sugar if you're diabetic.

Whole soybeans are rich in protein, calcium, iron, zinc, B vitamins, and dietary fiber, but products made from soybeans vary in their nutrient content, depending on how much of the original soybean has been processed out. With the exception of such foods as soy sauce and tamari (which really are just salty condiments), foods made from soybeans are nutrient dense and contribute to the healthfulness of your meals.

When you use soy foods in place of high-fat meats and dairy products, you substantially lower your intake of artery-clogging saturated fat and cholesterol. Doing so not only helps you minimize your intake of what you don't need, but also helps you work in more of what you do need — the vitamins, minerals, and phytochemicals found in foods of plant origin.

Foods made from soybeans have been a staple in Asia for centuries, not only because they're healthful but also because they're delicious and versatile. Whether you use them a little or a lot in your own cooking, most vegetarians find that soy foods are practical and convenient ingredients to have on hand.

The various shapes and forms of soy
Soy foods come in dozens of forms. Some of them are used as ingredients in commercially produced food products, and others are sold as ready-to-eat products. Soy foods can take the place of meat, cheese, eggs, milk, and other animal products in recipes. Nutritionally, soy products are far superior to their meat counterparts because they're cholesterol-free, low in saturated fat, and usually lower in sodium. They're also free of nitrates and nitrites, preservatives that are commonly found in processed meat products and that may cause cancer.

Table 1 gives you an idea of types of soy products that are available and the many ways in which they can be used.

Table 1: Soy Foods and Their Uses

Soy Product
Description and Uses

Meat substitutes
Meat alternatives made from soy protein, tofu, and other ingredients. They resemble meat products such as cold cuts, hotdogs, sausage, and bacon in appearance, texture, flavor, and aroma and can be used in the same ways that their meat counterparts are used.

Miso
A rich, salty East Asian condiment used to flavor soups, sauces, entrees, salad dressings, marinades, and other foods. This savory paste is made from soybeans, a grain (usually rice), and salt. It's combined with a mold culture and aged for at least one year. It doesn't have much nutritional value and is high in sodium, so, like most condiments, it should be used sparingly.

Soy cheese
A substitute for dairy cheese that comes in many different forms, such as mozzarella style, jack style, American style, and cream cheese style. It can be used to make sandwiches, pizza, casseroles, and spreads.

Soy mayonnaise
Several brands of soy-based mayonnaise are available at natural foods stores. They can be used in all the ways that regular mayonnaise is used.

Soy milk
A beverage made from soaked, ground, and strained soybeans. It can be used in all the ways that cow's milk is used, in recipes or as a beverage.

Soy sauce
A rich, salty, dark brown liquid condiment made from fermented soybeans.

Soy yogurt
Made from soymilk; can be used as a substitute for dairy yogurt. It often contains active cultures and is available in a variety of flavors.

Tamari
A type of soy sauce; a byproduct of the production of miso.

Tempeh
A traditional Indonesian soy food. It's made from whole soybeans that have been mixed with a grain and a mold culture, fermented, and pressed into a block or cake. It can be grilled and served as an entree and used as an ingredient in sandwich and burrito fillings, casseroles, chili, and other foods.

Textured soy protein (TSP) or textured vegetable protein (TVP)
A product made from textured soy flour. It's usually sold in chunks or granules, takes on a chewy, meatlike texture when rehydrated, and is used in such foods as vegetarian chili, vegetarian sloppy Joes, veggie burgers, and other meat substitutes.

Tofu
Soybean curd. Tofu is made in a process similar to cheese-making, using soymilk and a coagulant. It's bland tasting and is available in a variety of textures and densities. It can be used in numerous ways: cubed in stir-fry, marinated and baked, as a substitute for eggs and cheese, as a sandwich filling, and as an ingredient in dips, sauces, desserts, cream soups, and many other foods.

Like cheese, eggs, meat, and other high-protein foods, tofu and tempeh can spoil if left unrefrigerated. Don't leave foods made with tofu and tempeh out at room temperature for more than two hours. When you're finished with a meal, cover the leftovers and put them back in the refrigerator as soon as possible.

Try this smoothie recipe for a satisfying pick-me-up:

Winter Berry Smoothie

Rich purple jewel tones dotted with tiny black flecks create a stunning, light refreshment. Serve this smoothie in a clear glass because the color is so spectacular. This one's a crowd-pleaser, so if you have company, plan to multiply the recipe. Fortunately, this recipe is so easy that it takes only minutes to make.

Preparation time: 5 minutes

Yield: One large serving (2 cups) or two smaller servings

1 cup vanilla soymilk
1/2 ripe banana
1 cup frozen mixed berries (strawberries, blackberries, blueberries, and raspberries)
2 tablespoons pure maple syrup

1. Place all the ingredients in a blender.

2. Blend on high speed for about 1 minute or until smooth, stopping every 15 seconds to scrape the sides of the blender with a spatula and to push the solid ingredients down to the bottom of the blender.

3. Pour into a tall (16-ounce) tumbler or two smaller (8-ounce) glasses and serve immediately with an iced-tea spoon and a straw.

Autumn Harvest Applesauce

2008-05-16T09:48:00.000+07:00

With a bright pink blush from tart cranberries, this applesauce surely outshines anything from a jar. It's sweetened with fresh apple cider and real maple syrup. Use the crispest of apples for the best flavor and texture. Your pressure cooker lets you make this fall favorite in minutes.

Preparation time: 10 minutes

Cooking time: 5 minutes under pressure

Pressure setting: High

Autumn Harvest Applesauce

3 pounds apples, such as Jonathan, Golden Delicious, or Jonagold, peeled, cored, and quartered

1 1/2 cups fresh or frozen cranberries

1 cinnamon stick

1 cup apple cider or apple juice

1/2 cup pure maple syrup

Pinch of salt

1.Place the apples, cranberries, cinnamon stick, cider, maple syrup, and salt in a pressure cooker. Stir well.

2.Cover and bring to high pressure. Lower the heat to stabilize the pressure and cook for 5 minutes.

3.Remove from the heat. Release the pressure by using a quick-release method.

4.Unlock and remove the cover. The apples should be very soft. Remove and discard the cinnamon stick.

5.Puree the apples with a handheld potato masher or process with a hand blender in the pressure cooker pot. Taste and add additional maple syrup or sugar, if desired. Refrigerate when cool.

Tip: Fresh cranberries are available from September through early winter. Because they freeze well for up to a year, buy a few extra bags and store them in your freezer to have a ready supply year-round

Asparagus and Carrots with Lemon Dressing

2008-05-13T10:45:00.000+07:00

Asparagus, a popular vegetable for Passover, makes a tasty and pretty vegetable side dish. It's especially appealing when paired with carrots and a light dressing of fresh lemon juice, fine olive oil, and fragrant herbs.

Asparagus and Carrots with Lemon Dressing

Preparation time: 20 minutes

Cooking time: 15 minutes

Yield: 4 servings

Keeping kosher: Pareve

3/4 to 1 pound medium-width asparagus, with woody ends trimmed off

1 pound baby carrots

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons strained fresh lemon juice (juice from 1 lemon)

1/2 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest

Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Cayenne pepper to taste

1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme, or 1/2 teaspoon dried

2 teaspoons snipped fresh chives

Peel bottom 2/3 of each asparagus spear. Cut spears in 2-inch pieces and set aside.

Place carrots in a medium saucepan with water to cover and a pinch of salt. Bring to a boil and simmer over medium heat for 10 minutes or until just tender. Using a slotted spoon, place carrots in a strainer, leaving liquid in saucepan.

In a small bowl, whisk olive oil with lemon juice and zest. Season to taste with salt, pepper, and cayenne.

Bring carrot cooking liquid to a boil. Add asparagus and boil uncovered for 3 minutes or until just tender. Place carrots in a strainer. If not serving hot, rinse asparagus with cold water; drain well.

Combine asparagus and carrots in a shallow serving bowl. Add dressing, thyme, and chives and toss lightly. Taste and adjust seasoning. Serve hot, warm, or cool.

Per serving: Calories 153.2; Protein 2.6 g; Carbohydrates 14.2 g; Dietary fiber 3.7 g; Total fat 10.3 g; Saturated fat 1.4 g; Cholesterol 0.0 mg; Sodium 208.3 mg.

Jewish Mother's Advice: If you're preparing the vegetables ahead to serve as a cool salad, the color of the asparagus will be brightest if you add the lemon dressing at the last minute.

Looking at the Chinese Approach to Cooking

2008-05-10T14:33:00.001+07:00

You don't have to be well versed in Confucianism or Taoist principles to think like a Chinese cook, and you don't have to master fancy cooking techniques or buy a ton of kitchen equipment either. You really need only a few simple tools and the willingness to follow a few basic guidelines — not rules — that all Chinese cooks first learned as children in their own parents' kitchens.

Keep it in balance
The Chinese pay a great deal of attention to contrast and harmony in their everyday existence. Balancing yin and yang is a way to achieve harmony in your life, as well as your culinary creations. These two elements complement and contrast each other, and a thorough understanding of them goes a long way toward understanding the Chinese philosophy in the kitchen. Here's what these two terms mean:

Yin represents feminine, soft, cold, and wet forces.
Yang is masculine, bright, hot, dry, and vigorous.
So how does this harmony translate to food? Chinese classify bland, low-calorie foods as yin, whereas richer and fattier items fall within the yang category. By harmonizing the yin and yang ingredients in a dish, the cook creates a good meal that maintains a healthy balance. If this concept sounds a bit too abstract, consider the popular dish sweet-and-sour pork — a clear example of the yin-yang balance of taste (sweet is yin, and sour is yang).

Balancing isn't restricted to taste alone. You can create texture contrast by combining soft, steamed items with crispy, fried ones. Or how about contrasting the color scheme with the spiciness in a single dish? Cooking techniques as opposite as deep-frying and steaming can join forces to create meals that are not only tasty but also philosophically stimulating.

Cook seasonally, buy locally
For much of China's history, its people have had to adapt their daily menus to those ingredients available in their own gardens and at local markets on that particular day. Chinese home cooks somehow managed to turn this liability into an asset, taking limited, simple ingredients and turning them into masterpieces. The popularity of wheat-flour dumplings and noodles and of root-based dishes in northern China; the deft preparation of fresh seafood in the regions running along the country's coast; and the prevalence of fresh produce and rice dishes in the semitropical south all attest to the use of local, seasonally accessible foods.

Perhaps the best place to start is at your local farmers market. Always ask what's in season. Fruits and vegetables that are in season are abundant and at their peak of flavor, color, and texture, while those out of season are few, and their quality can be questionable. Go with the numbers, and you have a better chance at getting high-quality ingredients.

Don't see what you want in your local market? Check out the seed store, and you may turn your backyard into a healthy Asian vegetable garden. You can rather effortlessly grow many vegetables that are common in Chinese dishes in small backyard plots or gardens.

Granted, raising poultry and hogs in midtown Manhattan or catching live river shrimp in Nebraska may not be practical. Nevertheless, you should still think "fresh, fresh, fresh" when seeking these and other ingredients at your local market or your favorite butcher's counter.

Many substitutes are available for the traditional ingredients and cooking tools used in Chinese cuisine. But there is no substitute for freshness. None.

If all else fails, improvise!
Chinese chefs are experts in developing endless alternatives in ingredients and cooking methods in the face of scarcity and hardship. If you want to cook like the Chinese, you, too, should adopt a flexible approach when it comes to the availability of ingredients.

Many ingredients in traditional Chinese dishes sound foreign to novice cooks — and for good reason! Even with the ever-expanding stock of most supermarket chains, finding yard-long beans in suburban Detroit may still be a bit challenging. However, regular green beans can make a nice substitute. So be flexible: Buy fresh, crisp regular green beans and enjoy.

The next time you hit an ingredient-availability wall, don't give up on the whole recipe. Use your imagination to scope out attainable items that can take the place of ones not quite at peak freshness or still on the dock in Shanghai. No one but you will know the difference.

In all Chinese markets, you find an array of dried, pickled, salted, bottled, canned, or otherwise-preserved counterparts for seasonal or less-readily available ingredients. Take advantage of the assortment and stock up on dried noodles, grains, and dried black mushrooms, for starters.

If you don't have the time or inclination to make your own sweet-and-sour stir-fry sauce, the Asian foods section of your local store can pick up the slack with countless bottled versions. Remember that canned, sliced water chestnuts, bamboo shoots, and straw mushrooms — all easy to find — take the core out of your prep work. By throwing in a little patience and imagination, anyone can cook Chinese like the Chinese.

Steamed Whole Fish, Chinese-Style

2008-05-10T14:29:00.001+07:00

Chinese restaurant aficianados often judge the quality of a restaurant by its steamed whole fish. Such a simple cooking method makes it practically impossible to hide a second-rate fish (and chef!) underneath heavy seasonings or a thick sauce. Test your own steaming prowess with this simply sublime Cantonese classic.

To make it really Cantonese, use carp instead of sea bass. Although carp isn't a very popular fish in the West, it's a Chinese favorite, and if you live near a Chinese market, you can probably find it still alive and swimming in the store's fish tanks.

Preparation time: 15 minutes

Cooking time: 12 to 14 minutes

Yield: 4 servings

1 sea bass, cleaned with head left on
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup finely shredded ginger
2 green onions, cut into 1-1/2-inch pieces and thinly julienned
1/4 cup cooking oil
1/4 cup soy sauce

1. Pat the fish dry and score it on both sides. Lay it on a heatproof serving dish with slightly raised sides. (If your wok or steamer is rather small, the fish can be halved.) Sprinkle with the salt; spread the ginger on the fish and some in the cavities.

2. Prepare a wok for steaming. Cover and steam the fish over high heat, until the fish is cooked and the flesh flakes off, about 13 minutes. Remove from the heat and sprinkle with the green onions.

3. Heat the cooking oil in a small saucepan over high heat until it begins to smoke. Pour the hot oil over the fish and the green onions. Pour the soy sauce over the fish.

Variation: Setting the fish on two whole green onion stalks as it steams not only adds to the meal's flavor but also gives the steaming process a helpful nudge by letting the steam circulate more fully around the fish. Try it yourself. Also, those score marks you've made are the perfect "pockets" for holding any additional seasonings — slices of ginger, green onion, or even slices of black mushrooms — that you may want to use to give an extra jolt of flavor.

Handling Raw Chicken with Care

2008-05-10T14:22:00.000+07:00

Although American poultry production is carefully monitored and the facilities comply with all government sanitary and safety guidelines, salmonella and other bacteria that can cause sickness in human beings may still be found in chicken. Fortunately, these bacteria are killed off if the chicken is cooked until the internal temperature reaches 160 degrees for boneless, skinless breasts; 170 degrees for bone-in breasts and leg quarters; and 180 degrees for whole birds.

Here are a few guidelines for safe handling and preparation of chicken in your kitchen:

Always keep poultry refrigerated, even when in a marinade, until it's ready for cooking.

Always thaw frozen poultry in the refrigerator, never at room temperature. You can usually thaw a chicken this way overnight.

If any part of the bird has an odd or "off" odor, discard the entire chicken.

Before cooking the chicken, wash it, inside and out, with cold water and then pat it dry with paper towels. Discard the paper towels.

Thoroughly wash your hands, the utensils, and the work surface when you're done.

Grilling chicken breasts
Chicken breasts offer plenty of interesting grilling options. They can be grilled with or without their skin and bones; seasoned with any number of alluring rubs, sauces, and marinades; and sliced into thin strips or thick cubes for sizzling kebabs.

Breast meat is juicier and more flavorful if the breast is grilled with the skin intact. However, the skin contains a lot of fat that can cause dangerous flare-ups. You may want to opt for skinless breasts or pull the skin off before grilling. Skinless breast recipes grill in about 10 minutes (a great advantage of cooking without the skin and bone — it's so fast).

You can grill chicken breasts with the skin intact to add flavor and moisture to the meat, and then reduce calories by removing the skin before serving.

Make It Mexican: Tequila, Sangria, and Beer

2008-05-09T23:49:00.001+07:00

The only thing that sounds like more fun than eating Mexican food is drinking Mexican drinks. Mexican beers, margaritas, and tequilas are so popular that they are the gateway for many people to tasting Mexican food for the first time. After you've munched on chips and salsa at a couple of parties, why not take the leap to tamales and empanadas, or to cactus salad, the next time you're looking for an accompaniment to that ice chest of Mexican beers?

Tequila 101
Tequila is the distilled spirit of the heart of the agave (ah-GAH-vay) plant — a spiky succulent of the lily family, not a cactus. To make tequila, the heart, or pina, of the agave is steamed in huge ovens, and the resulting sweet juice is fermented and distilled.

Making the grade
The Mexican government regulates tequila production so that all tequila meets the following conditions:

It must come from one of five north central Mexican states: Jalisco, Guanjuato, Michoacan, Nayarit, or Tamaulipas.
It must be at least 60 percent derived from the Blue agave or Tequilana Weber plant.
It must be distilled twice.
There are five distinct types of tequila:

Plata, Blanco, and Silver are the youngest tequilas. They are clear like vodka, not aged, and they are frequently used for mixed drinks.
Mixtos are the cheapest tequilas, made from 60 percent agave.
Joven Abogado, or Gold, are unaged tequilas that are colored and slightly softened or sweetened with caramel or food coloring. Use this variety when you don't want to spend the bucks for añejo.
Reposado is aged, but not as long as añejo. It is stored for two months to a year in small wood barrels, where it acquires a light gold color. Reposados combine the spiciness of clear tequila with the smoothness of añejo.
Añejo, the most costly tequila, must be aged in wood, preferably small oak barrels, at least a year but sometimes as long as 3 years. This is great for sipping slowly, in the same way that people traditionally enjoy brandy. Although the complexity of a brandy can be overwhelming sometimes, tequilas are relatively simple and straightforward. They have a distinctive alcoholic flavor — with a slight sour edge.
Top-shelf selections
If you want to cultivate a taste for fine tequilas, check out this list of contenders for the tequila hall of fame:

Patrón Añejo, with a smooth rich flavor, is Susan's favorite.
El Tesoro Añejo, with its strong flavor of alcohol, is Mary Sue's favorite.
Chinaco Añejo is named after the "Fighting Chinacos." With a name like that, how could we resist?
Porfidio Silver, an elegant, crystal-clear plata, is distilled three times making it smooth as silk going down.
Del Dueño is a slightly sweet añejo.
What is this thing called mezcal?
As you find out more about tequila, you may start wondering about mezcal — that mysterious beverage with the worm on the bottom of the bottle.

Mezcal, the form of tequila from southern Mexico, hasn't changed much since the Spanish introduced the still to Mexico in 1520. Unlike tequila, which must be made from a specific plant and is produced by large industrial companies, mezcal can be made from several types of agave and is still being made in small batches by tiny distillers. The resulting drink is more rough-hewn and less uniform than tequila. One premium brand is Encantado.

The worm, or gusano, found on the bottle's bottom, is not a worm at all, but a caterpillar. Once, locals may have believed that the gusano was imbued with magical powers. But today, it is merely thought to sell more bottles of mezcal.

Favorite Mexican beers
The Mexican approach to beer is closer to the American view of soft drinks: bubbly, refreshing beverages meant to be drunk throughout the day to quench a thirst rather than loosen inhibitions. In fact, beers are sold in 6-ounce bottles for quick snacks, and sometimes they're mixed with half lemonade or limeade for a bubbly morning drink. Beer is always served with a wedge of lime in Mexico, a custom that can be traced back to the Spaniards.

Best beer picks include the following:

Pacifico: A slightly acidic, light-colored beer, made in an ale style. Try mixing it with half lemonade or half tomato juice for a great summer drink.
Bohemia: Slightly darker than the ales, but still light-colored. This well-crafted, flavorful beer has placed first in blind worldwide beer tastings — no mean feat against all those German brews. It has a smooth finish and slight aftertaste, best with just a rub of lime on the rim of the glass.
Dos Equis: With its amber color, it is a nice cross between lighter and darker style beers. The recipe for this 100-year-old beer (named XX for the turn of the century) was created by a German brew master.
Negro Modelo: A dark beer from the Yucatán. It has a hint of molasses, without being too sweet, and a strong flavor. For your complete drinking pleasure, coat the rim of a tumbler with salt, fill with crushed ice, pour in the beer, and squeeze in a few lime wedges. Leave yourself plenty of time to relax and enjoy such a carefully crafted drink.
On the lighter side: Sangria
A light fruit and wine drink, like sangria, is terrific for casual afternoon gatherings. Sangria looks especially nice when served in sangria pitchers.

Sangria

Preparation time: 10 minutes, plus 2 hours steeping

Yield: 4 servings

1 orange
1 lemon
1 lime
1 bottle fruity red wine, such as Pinot Noir
1 cup freshly squeezed orange juice
2 cups ice cubes

1. Scrub the orange, lemon, and lime under running water and cut them into 1/4-inch slices. Cut each slice into quarters to form wedges.

2. Place the fruit wedges in a pitcher, pour in the wine, and let the sangria sit for about 2 hours at room temperature so that the flavors can combine. Alternatively, steep as long as a day in the refrigerator.

3. Just before serving, stir in the orange juice and ice cubes. Serve immediately.

For sangria that stays cold longer, try making one large ice cube. Wash out a half-gallon cardboard milk carton and fill it with water. Add some thin slices of oranges, lemons, and limes for color. Stand the carton upright in the freezer and freeze. Empty the ice into a punch bowl by ripping off the carton just before adding the sangria.

Beyond Mozzarella: Getting to Know Italian Cheeses

2008-05-09T23:43:00.001+07:00

Italians are rightly famous for their cheeses. Parmesan cheese is used the world over to flavor pasta dishes, as well as egg, rice, and meat dishes. You have hundreds of Italian cheeses to choose from. Most, however, aren't exported. The following sections describe some of the most popular and useful Italian cheeses. Some are sold in supermarkets. All are readily available at a good cheese shop or gourmet store.

Fontina
Real Fontina cheese from Valle d'Aosta in the far northwest of Italy is rich and creamy with a buttery, nutty flavor. This is a fine eating cheese. (You would never eat some cheeses as is, such as ricotta or mascarpone — they're just for cooking.) Let the fontina come to room temperature, and it becomes soft. Fontina never gets runny like brie, but it shouldn't be firm, either. You can eat Fontina as is, or because it melts so well, you can use it in sandwiches or pizzas.

Avoid Fontina from other sources. Most supermarkets carry a rubbery, bland Fontina cheese from Denmark or Sweden with a texture more like Cheddar and absolutely no flavor.

Gorgonzola
Italy's prized blue cheese can be made in various styles. Sometimes, Gorgonzola is dry and crumbly and has an intense blue cheese flavor similar to Roquefort, a popular blue cheese from France. Although this aged cheese is fine for nibbling, when cooking use the milder, creamier type of Gorgonzola called dolce or dolce latte —"sweet" or "sweet milk." The texture is creamy, and the distinctive blue cheese flavor isn't overpowering.

If you can't find Italian Gorgonzola dolce, you might try Saga Blue, a Danish blue cheese readily available in supermarkets. The flavor isn't as distinctive as Gorgonzola, but Saga Blue is milder and creamier than most supermarket blue cheeses.

Mozzarella
You can find so many styles of this important Italian cheese that figuring out where to start may seem hard. The original mozzarella was made from the milk of water buffalo and was called mozzarella di bufala, which is fairly hard to find in Italy and downright scarce elsewhere. It tastes best when incredibly fresh (no more than a few days old); it doesn't ship all that well.

Most fresh mozzarella (the fresh cheese is packed in water, not shrink-wrapped) is made from cow's milk and called fiore di latte. The flavor is milky and sweet, and the texture is springy, yet yielding. You should eat this cheese as is, in a simple mozzarella, tomato, and basil salad or perhaps marinated in olive oil and served as an antipasto. When cooked, it loses some of its delicacy.

When buying fresh mozzarella, try to get cheese that has been made that day. Mozzarella starts to go downhill after a day or two, and after three or four days, it's usually not worth eating. The cheese should look white and have a fresh, sweet smell. If the cheese smells at all sour or looks dried out, go to another shop. When you get fresh mozzarella home, use it immediately. If you must keep it for a few days, refrigerate the cheese in a container filled with enough very lightly salted water to cover the cheese.

Parmesan
Parmigiano-Reggiano is the king of Italian cheeses. This name is given to the finest aged Parmesan cheese produced in the Parma area in northern Italy. Although you may balk at paying $12 to $15 a pound for Parmigiano-Reggiano, most recipes call for very little, and the cheese delivers a big impact. Freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano (don't buy pregrated cheese; it dries out and loses much of its flavor) has a rich, buttery, nutty flavor. It's so good that Italians often break off tiny pieces from a hunk of Parmigiano-Reggiano and eat the cheese with drinks as an appetizer.

When shopping for Parmigiano-Reggiano, try to buy small wedges (about half a pound is a good size for grating) that have been freshly cut from a whole wheel of the cheese. A whole wheel weighs at least 65 pounds and has the words Parmigiano-Reggiano stenciled all around the rind. When buying wedges, check the rind to make sure that part of this stenciling appears — this is the only way to know that you're getting the real thing. You can wrap Parmigiano-Reggiano in waxed paper or plastic wrap and keep it in the refrigerator for several weeks, at least.

Pecorino
Pecorino is traditionally made from sheep's milk, although some manufacturers add some cow's milk to reduce the pungency or save money. In Italy, Pecorino is usually sold fresh or lightly aged and is served as an eating cheese. Young Pecorino isn't widely known elsewhere. Most of the exported Pecorino has been aged much longer. Like Parmesan, aged Pecorino is designed for grating, but it has a much saltier and more pungent flavor.

Most exported Pecorino is from the Rome area, hence the name Pecorino Romano. (Pecorino cheeses are also made in Sardinia, Sicily, and Tuscany.) Pecorino Romano is bone-white cheese that has an intense peppery flavor. Like Parmigiano-Reggiano, the words Pecorino Romano appear stenciled on the rind to make shopping for the authentic product easy. Many American-made Pecorino cheeses taste of salt and nothing else; you should avoid these American varieties.

Pecorino is best in dishes with assertive ingredients, such as capers, olives, or hot red pepper flakes. Pecorino also works well with vegetables like eggplant and zucchini. Pecorino is widely used in Sicilian and Sardinian dishes.

Ricotta
Like mozzarella, ricotta should be freshly made and consumed within a few days. It should be creamy and thick, not watery and curdish, like so many supermarket brands sold in plastic containers. In Italy, local cheese makers produce fresh ricotta with a dry, firm consistency (akin to goat cheese). The flavor is sweet and milky. This cheese is so perishable that it's rarely exported.

In the United States, you can get fresh, locally made ricotta in and near urban centers with large Italian-American populations. This cheese shares many qualities with the Italian versions. These U.S. versions are especially good in ricotta cheesecakes and pasta sauces or fillings, in which the cheese is the main ingredient.

You can use supermarket ricotta cheese, but it's bland and the texture mushy and unappealing. You might try draining supermarket ricotta in a fine-mesh strainer for an hour or two to remove some of the water. This can improve the texture, but you can't really do anything to improve its flavor.

Awesome Party Chicken Wings

2008-05-09T23:39:00.001+07:00

The convenient size and simple preparation of these Chinese-style fried chicken wings make them perfect finger foods for a party. Just place them on a serving platter and keep them warm, and they'll still taste great at the end of the festivities — if there are any left!

Auntie Jessica's Party Chicken Wings

Preparation time: 10 minutes

Cooking time: 30 minutes

Yield: 4 to 6 servings

2 pounds chicken wings, rinsed and patted dry

1/3 cup cornstarch

2 tablespoons powdered chicken soup base

1 teaspoon Chinese five-spice powder

1 teaspoon salt

Cooking oil for deep-frying

Cut the chicken wings into sections, discarding the tips.

Combine the cornstarch, chicken soup base, five-spice powder, and salt in a large bowl. Add the chicken wings and mix well. Let stand for 10 minutes.

In a wok, heat the cooking oil to 375 degrees. Deep-fry the chicken wings, a few at a time, turning occasionally, until golden brown, 7 to 8 minutes per batch.

Do-It-Yourself Strawberry-Flavored Vodka

2008-05-08T09:43:00.000+07:00

Some vodka-aficionados make their own flavored vodka to ensure that the flavors are real and come from organically grown sources. Doing so also controls the amount of flavoring the vodka has. Here's a safe and sane way to make your own strawberry-flavored vodka. (First check with local regulations on how much you can make without paying taxes!)

Experiment with other fruits and berries such as raspberries, peaches, and pears.

Strawberry Vodka Infusion

Purchase two one-liter glass Mason jars with airtight covers. It helps if one has a spigot. Then follow these steps:

1. Get a 750 ml bottle of your favorite unflavored vodka and four pints of fresh strawberries. Best types: California and Alpine.

2. Wash everything you're using — from the berries to the Mason jar — so that it's all clean and free of any disinfectant.

3. Remove the green leafy hull and cut the berries in half using a sharp paring knife.

4. Add the berries and the vodka to one of the glass jars and allow them to infuse for a few days in a cool, dark place.

5. To get the most out of the strawberries, line a strainer with layers of cheesecloth and decant the initial mixture from one Mason jar into the second. Use a plastic spoon to press every bit of juice from the berries through the cheesecloth into the second jar. Make sure you add the entire mixture from the first bottle.

6. Let the mixture rest in its new home for a few hours. Sample it. If needed, sweeten with simple syrup — combine 1 cup of refined sugar with 1/2 cup of water; boil until syrupy. Add the syrup to the jar when finished.

Apple Drinks for Adults

2008-05-08T09:31:00.000+07:00

Celebrate apple season with this trio of decidedly adult mixed drinks -- and leave the apple cider for the kids.

Apple Kir

1 oz. Jose Cuervo Gold Tequila

1/2 oz. Crème de Cassis

1 oz. apple juice

1 tsp. fresh lemon juice

Mix in a rocks glass over ice. Garnish with a lemon wedge.

Apple Pie

1/2 oz. Apple Schnapps

1/2 oz. vodka

1/2 oz. pineapple juice

Dash of powdered cinnamon

Shake with ice and strain into a shot glass.

Appletini

2 parts DeKuyper Pucker Sour Apple

2 parts VOX Vodka

Shake with ice and strain into a chilled martini glass. Garnish with an apple slice.

Finally, don't forget apple brandy, served straight up in a snifter: Applejack is produced in the United States, while Calvados is made from a variety of apples from northwestern France.

Easy Creamy Mushroom Soup

2008-05-08T09:19:00.000+07:00

Not at all like its gloppy canned counterpart, this mushroom soup is light and has plenty of mushroom flavor.

Cream of Mushroom Soup

Yield: 4 to 6 servings

Level: Easy

Preparation time: 10 to 15 minutes

Cooking time: 20 to 25 minutes

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 tablespoons butter or margarine

1 medium onion, chopped

1/2 pound white or cremini mushrooms, coarsely chopped

3 tablespoons all-purpose flour

2-1/2 cups mushroom, chicken, or beef broth

2 tablespoons dry sherry (optional)

1/3 to 1/2 cup half-and-half, cream, or milk

Salt to taste, about 1/2 teaspoon

Freshly ground black pepper to taste

1 tablespoon chopped fresh chives or parsley (optional)

1.In a medium saucepan over medium heat, heat the olive oil and butter. Add the onion and saute, stirring occasionally, until translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the mushrooms and cook, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes more.

2.Add the flour, and cook, stirring often, for 2 to 3 minutes.

3.Gradually pour in the broth, stirring after each addition. The soup should begin to thicken. Add the sherry (if desired).

4.Bring the soup to a boil. Cover partially and simmer over medium heat for 5 to 10 minutes. Add the cream and heat through. Season with salt and pepper. Stir in the chives.

Use a combination of white, cremini, and shiitake mushrooms (no shiitake stems — they're too tough) for an earthier, richer taste.

Add Body and Texture to Soup

2008-05-08T09:01:00.000+07:00

A great soup not only tastes good, but also has good "mouth feel." That is, texture and body contribute to your soupy pleasure. A soup that is too thick can be hard to swallow. Thin it out by adding more broth, water, milk, or whatever liquid was used for the soup. Simmer until the soup is heated through and the flavor is balanced.

An easy way to thicken a too-thin soup is to add a few fresh breadcrumbs. You can make them in seconds by crumbling fresh bread (without the crust) between your fingers or by pulsing the bread in a food processor. Another method is to increase the heat slightly and simmer, uncovered, until it's the right consistency.

To add more body, puree some of the soup in a blender or food processor and return it to the pot, or add mild-tasting, pureed vegetables, such as mashed potatoes, or ingredients such as pureed cooked rice. (Puree the rice in the blender with some of the soup.) If the recipe is for a pureed soup, add additional cooked, pureed vegetables that you've already used in the recipe.

Checking Out the Chiles of Mexican Cooking

2008-05-07T20:26:00.000+07:00

Although chile peppers are enjoyed all over the world (China, Thailand, India, and Korea are big chile-growing and -eating countries), no other country matches Mexico's passion for peppers. Mexican farmers grow more than 140 varieties, and Mexican cooks are legendary for their skilled appreciation of every facet (not just the heat) of this complex vegetable that's technically a fruit.

Chiles have been misunderstood as an ingredient, perhaps because of their striking heat. If you stop to appreciate chiles, you'll start to notice a wide range of exotic flavors. From snappy, sparkly jalapeños to smoky chipotles and earthy poblanos, chiles are a light, healthful way to bring a wide range of strong, new flavors to your cooking. Just start with a little at a time, find out what you like, and don't let all the macho hype about the heat deter you.

Shopping for chiles
The names of chiles aren't consistent all over the United States, so study Figure 1 and judge chiles by their appearance and taste, not only their name.

A general rule for predicting the flavor and heat of a chile is the smaller the chile, the hotter the heat. Red indicates a ripe, and probably sweeter, chile than green. Cutting off and tasting a tiny piece of a slice of fresh chile is really the best way to predict its heat and flavor when cooked.

When purchasing fresh chiles, look for bright, smooth, shiny skin and buy about a week's supply. Store the chiles in the vegetable bin of the refrigerator and rinse them before using.

Dried chiles should be fragrant and flexible enough to bend without breaking. Look for unbroken chiles that are not too dusty. (Because chiles are dried outdoors, they can become dirty and dusty and need to be wiped off before cooking.) Store dried chiles in airtight bags in the freezer and let them soften a minute or two at room temperature before using.

Figure 1: Know how to recognize chiles by appearance and taste, because names can differ regionally.
Ancho
Anchos are the dried version of a green pepper, the poblano. This wrinkled red-brown, wide-shouldered chile has a mellow, sweet flavor, similar to a bell pepper, with just a touch of heat. Add it, julienned, to sauces for its chewy texture or pureed at the beginning of a sauce to add body and pure pepper flavor.

Chile de arbol
Arbols, also known as dried red chiles, are the papery thin, long, dried chiles sold by the bag in the supermarket. Used extensively in Chinese and Mexican cooking (they put the pow in Kung Pau chicken), these inexpensive little peppers pack a powerful punch of heat, especially after they're chopped and cooked. To tame their heat, you can add them whole to stews and soups and remove them before serving.

Chile negro or dried pasilla
This long, narrow, dark brown chile is a dried chilaca chile. Similar in flavor to the more popular ancho, pasillas are often used in combination with other dried chiles in traditional moles. Look for them via mail order or in ethnic markets.

Chipotle
Chipotles, or dried, smoked, red jalapeños, are one of those life-changing ingredients. Use these wrinkled, reddish-brown chiles to add a mysterious, smoky, sweet flavor to everything from salad dressings to grilled chicken and salsas.

Although usable as a substitute, canned chipotles en adobo (dried chiles packed in a sweet, sour, spicy sauce) are quite different. They're actually hotter, and their texture is softer. If you use chipotles en adobo, wipe them off to remove excess sauce and reduce by half the quantity of chiles called for in the recipe.

Habañero
This is one little pepper that lives up to its reputation. It's pure heat. Along with the Scotch Bonnet, the habañero is considered the world's hottest chile.

These small, lantern-shaped (usually) peppers are most often used in the Yucatán. You can shop for them at Latin and farmers markets where their color can range from dark green to orange and even red. Fresh, rather than dried habañeros, are preferable. You can substitute a larger quantity of serranos (seeds and all) in a pinch.

Jalapeño, red and green
The jalapeño, America's favorite chile pepper, is a thick-fleshed, small (about 3 inches long), bright green or red pepper. With its sweet, fresh, garden flavor and medium heat, this versatile pepper is great for garnishing just about anything.

In Mexico, jalapeños are eaten as an accompaniment to rich stews and tacos. They're easy to find at the market, but you can substitute serranos if you prefer.

Canned jalapeños aren't a good substitute for fresh peppers because their taste and texture are quite different.

Morita
These small, brown, dried chiles look like thin chipotles but are less smoky with a spicier taste. They are a variety of dried, smoked jalapeño. Use fewer moritas to replace chipotles in a recipe.

Poblano
These dark green, medium-sized, thick-fleshed chiles are wonderful fresh green peppers for cooking. Feature them in soups, sauces, and chilis; and they are a top choice for stuffing because of their wide shoulders, thick skin, and smoldering flesh. They are superb as rajas (roasted pepper strips) because of their meatiness.

Sometimes mislabeled as pasilla in the West, look for smooth-skinned poblano chiles with nice wide shoulders for stuffing. Less spicy, skinnier Anaheims can be substituted for stuffing, but poblanos should be easy to find in a well-stocked supermarket.

Serrano
Small, thin serranos are similar to jalapeños but pack a little more punch. Use the green variety (the reds are a bit sweeter) in salsas and as a raw garnish in salads and soups. They're easy to find at the supermarket, and you can use them interchangeably with jalapeños.

Handling fresh chiles
After chopping or otherwise handling chiles, be mindful of the other surfaces that have come in contact with cut chiles. The hot oils from the cut chiles will spread like, you guessed it, wildfire.

Immediately after handling chiles, wash off your cutting boards, knives, and hands with hot, soapy water. Be careful not to touch your face or eyes before hand washing because chile oil in the eye is extremely painful.

Some cooks like to wear gloves when handling chiles, and some cooks coat their hands with a layer of cooking oil to protect them. Just wash with soap and water to remove the oil.

Getting Acquainted with Vegetarian Cooking

2008-05-07T20:20:00.000+07:00

It's hard to go wrong with vegetables of any sort unless they're fried beyond recognition. Whether they're fresh, frozen, or canned, all vegetables have merit. Vegetables should factor heavily into your meals, and most people should eat double the portions they usually do. If you aren't doing so already, start eating heaping helpings of vegetables, and keep these points in mind:

All vegetables are worthwhile, but some are standouts and should be eaten often. Vegetables that have exceptional nutritional merit include deep yellow, orange, and red vegetables, as well as dark green vegetables. Examples include sweet potatoes; butternut and acorn squash; red, green, and yellow bell peppers; broccoli; kale; tomatoes; Swiss chard; and carrots. These vegetables are especially rich sources of vitamins A and C, iron, and calcium.
Cruciferous vegetables — vegetables in the cabbage family — are also particularly good choices because they're rich in phytochemicals that may protect your health. Examples include dark green vegetables such as broccoli, kale, mustard greens, and collard greens, as well as bok choy (or Chinese cabbage), kohlrabi, and cauliflower.
If you cook vegetables, choose methods that expose them to high heat for as short a time as possible to help preserve their nutrient content. Nutrient-preserving cooking methods include steaming, stir-frying, and cooking in a microwave oven.
If you have trouble getting enough calories on a vegetarian diet, eat more cooked vegetables — especially starchy ones like potatoes, corn, and peas — and fewer bulky raw vegetables, such as lettuce, celery, green beans, and carrots.
Buy locally grown vegetables in season when you can. They're likely to be freshly picked and won't have had to travel a great distance (therefore losing nutrients) before getting to your table.
Strive for large portions of vegetables and serve them often. Make vegetables ingredients in your recipes on a regular basis. Look for creative ways to add them. For example, if your summer garden is giving you lots of tomatoes and green beans, add them to cooked pasta along with your usual toppings, or serve them alongside the rest of your meal. Combine them with a little vinegar and olive oil for a fresh summer salad.

Adding vegetables to your diet doesn't have to be difficult or time-consuming. Here are some additional ideas for making them a regular feature at meals:

If it's more convenient for you, buy prepared vegetables such as stir-fry mixes, baby carrots that have already been peeled and washed, and ready-to-eat salad mixes. You do pay more when someone else washes, peels, and chops your vegetables for you, but if it means that you'll eat more of them, it may be worth the extra cost.
After grocery shopping, take 15 minutes or so to wash, peel, and chop your own vegetables. Store them in an airtight container or plastic bag in the refrigerator. They'll be ready when it's time to prepare a meal, and you'll be more likely to use them if they're ready to go. This works well for such vegetables as carrots, broccoli, cauliflower, bell peppers, and onions. Potatoes, on the other hand, should be cut up just before cooking (to keep them from turning color), and tomatoes should be sliced just before serving to keep them firm and fresh tasting.
Consider purchasing an electric steamer. Steamers are inexpensive and easy to use. You can use a steamer to cook potatoes, sweet potatoes, carrots, onions, corn on the cob, greens, and other vegetables. Steaming is also a good way to use up vegetables that have been sitting around for a while. Just wash the vegetables, cut them into pieces, and toss them in. Add water, set the timer, and go back to your life. There's nothing left to do until the vegetables are ready — no watching the stove or fiddling with the microwave.
Serve fresh, cut-up vegetables with hummus, low-fat salad dressings, black bean dip, or salsa. Don't limit yourself to carrots, bell peppers, and broccoli, although those veggies are great choices. You can also slice yellow squash and zucchini, daikon, jicama, cauliflower, broccoflower (a cross between broccoli and cauliflower), and cherry tomatoes.
Note that some cut vegetables, such as carrots and celery, should be stored in water, or else they will become dry and unappetizing.
Chop or grate fresh vegetables and blend them into marinara sauce for pasta, or toss them with cooked pasta and olive oil for pasta primavera. You can also add them to pasta that you have tossed with fresh pesto (an aromatic blend of minced fresh basil, oil, and other ingredients) or stir them into soup while it's heating on the stove.
Grated fresh vegetables make a fabulous sandwich filling. Grate several different vegetables (carrots, green peppers, and jicama, for example) and roll them into a flour tortilla with some homemade dressing, or add them to a pita pocket along with a scoop of tofu salad, hummus, or a sprinkling of grated cheese. Add a dash of balsamic vinegar and heat your sandwich briefly.
Keep sweet onion on hand and use it liberally. You can also mince some onion and sprinkle it liberally on top of a big bowl of black bean soup.

Sweet Corn Crêpes

2008-05-06T15:54:00.000+07:00

These sweet crêpes have dozens of uses. Serve with ice cream, fruit, dessert sauces like crème anglaise, or even sweet yogurt. You can use a half-and-half mix of corn flour, which gives this dessert an earthy texture, and cake flour, which keeps the crêpes exceptionally light. You also can substitute cornmeal for the corn flour. These corn crêpes are ideal when served with a warm fruit compote.

Sweet Corn Crêpes

Tools: Sieve, 8-inch crêpe pan or 8-inch nonstick fry pan, pastry brush, ladle

Preparation time: 30 minutes

Cooking time: 30 minutes

Yield: About 20 crêpes

1/2 cup (2 ounces) cake flour

1/2 cup (2 ounces) corn flour or cornmeal

6 tablespoons sugar

pinch of salt

1 cup (8 ounces) skim milk or soy milk

3 egg whites

3 tablespoons safflower or corn oil

zest of 1 lemon (1 tablespoon)

2 tablespoons Cointreau, or other orange-flavored liqueur (optional)

vegetable oil, for greasing the pan

1. In a bowl, sift together the cake flour, corn flour, 3 tablespoons sugar, and salt.

2. While mixing (by hand with a whisk is best), slowly add the milk. Then whisk in the egg whites, followed by the safflower or corn oil. (If lumps appear in the batter, try to break them up with a whisk — if you can't, press the batter through a sieve with a rubber spatula.) When the batter is smooth, add the lemon zest and Cointreau (optional). The batter should be thin.

3. Prepare a crêpe pan or an 8-inch nonstick fry pan by brushing it with vegetable oil.

4. Heat the crêpe pan over medium setting for about a minute.

5. Ladle some batter onto the middle of the pan and immediately start swirling the pan to distribute the batter over the surface. All the while, keep the ladle over the center of the pan as the remaining batter pours out — you want the batter to always land in the center of the pan for even distribution. Pour the batter so that it's very thin on the pan. Remember to move the pan, not the ladle.

6. Cook the crêpe for about 30 seconds, or until it's brown around the edge and dry in the center. Using a thin spatula, flip the crêpe quickly and cook for about 15 seconds. Remove the crêpe to a warm plate. Sprinkle the crêpe with the remaining sugar.

7. Repeat Steps 5 and 6 with the remaining batter. Before dipping your ladle into the batter to make another crêpe, remember to stir up the corn flour that sinks to the bottom of the bowl.

After making the first few crêpes, you shouldn't have to add more oil to the pan. Be careful not to let the pan get too hot — it will sizzle too much, and the batter will cook immediately upon hitting the pan rather than swirl around.

No-Fuss Buñuelos (Mexican Cinnamon Sticks)

2008-05-06T15:52:00.000+07:00

At family holiday gatherings in Mexico, there is no shortage of recipes to satisfy the seemingly universal yearning for celebratory sweets. Platters of crispy buñuelos are enjoyed throughout the day, just as you might share plates of cookies when guests drop in during the holidays.

These buñuelos are baked, not fried, and make a great last-minute treat when you want to serve something homemade for dessert but don't have the time to fuss.

Quick and Easy Buñuelo Sticks
Special tool:Baking or cookie sheet

Preparation time:10 minutes

Cooking time:12 minutes

Yield:36 pieces

9 8-inch flour tortillas

3/4 cup melted butter

1 egg, beaten

1/3 cup shredded coconut

1 cup granulated sugar plus 1 tablespoon ground cinnamon, mixed

1/3 cup sliced almonds

1/3 cup chopped pecans

1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.

2. Lay 3 tortillas on the counter and brush with butter. Transfer the tortillas, butter-side-down, to a cookie sheet and brush the second side with beaten egg. Sprinkle with the coconut and about 1/3 of the cinnamon sugar and then slice into 1-1/2 inch wide strips.

3. Repeat Step 2 with the next 3 tortillas, sprinkling with the almonds instead of coconut, and do the same with the remaining 3 tortillas, sprinkling with the pecans.

4. Bake for 12 minutes or until golden and crisp and cool on rack. Enjoy with coffee or tea.

Greek Cooking: Getting the Feel of Phyllo Dough

2008-05-06T15:50:00.000+07:00

Almost anyone who has eaten Greek food is familiar with that wonderful Greek specialty spanakopita, or spinach pie, or the most renowned of Greek sweets, baklava (see the recipe later in this article). While one dish is savory and the other sweet, both are recognizable from their baked-up, golden, crispy appearance, a telltale sign that they're made from phyllo (or filo) dough.

Phyllo (which means leaf in Greek) dough is finely rolled and stretched sheets of wheat dough. Paper-thin and almost translucent, the sheets are approximately 12 x 20 inches and are stacked, rolled, wrapped, and then frozen. Phyllo dough is readily available at most supermarkets and at Greek and Middle Eastern specialty food stores.

Because the dough is already rolled and cut, phyllo is easy to work with when handled properly. Be aware, however, that the sheets of dough are so thin that they dry out quickly and can tear, leading to less than satisfactory results.

For beautiful baked goods, follow these tips for working with phyllo:

Plan accordingly. Frozen phyllo dough has to defrost several hours or overnight in a tightly sealed package before you use it.
Always defrost the dough in the refrigerator. If not, the outer sheets may become sticky from condensation in the package as it defrosts. Sticky sheets usually tear as you try to separate them.
Because the dough tends to dry out so quickly, prepare the filling mixture and other ingredients while the dough defrosts. Cool filling mixtures to room temperature before using.
Bring the dough to room temperature before using.
To remove the phyllo dough from the package, carefully slit one end of the inner plastic bag. Save the bag to repack any leftover dough. Remove the defrosted dough from the package and carefully unroll it slowly so you don't tear it. Set the entire stack of phyllo on a large tray or clean kitchen towel.
The sheets of dough are so thin that they'll begin to dry out almost immediately. The dry phyllo will then crack and be almost impossible to work with. Therefore, always cover the dough immediately with a sheet or two of wax paper or a clean, dampened kitchen cloth, wrung out well, making sure that the edges of the dough are well protected.
Phyllo dough is usually a fat-free product. When baking with it, you usually need to brush the individual sheets with melted, clarified butter.
Don't fret if the dough gets small tears or cracks in it. The dough is so thin that such cracks are inevitable. Simply brush the area with melted butter, patch up the problem area with a small piece of dough, and brush over it again with some more butter.
Never wet or brush the phyllo sheets (or "leaves," as the Greeks refer to them) with water. Doing so can cause the phyllo to fall apart.
Because pastries using phyllo are made with melted butter, always bake them on a pan with a lip to catch any runoff.
Unused, leftover phyllo sheets can be rerolled and placed in the original plastic bag. Tape to seal the end and place back in the box. Store in the refrigerator for up to a week or refreeze for up to 3 months.
Baklava
The most famous of Greek pastries, baklava is a diamond-shaped pastry made of layers of buttery, crisp phyllo, filled with sweetened nuts, and bathed in a honey-enriched syrup. The contrast of textures and flavors makes this dessert unique and a special treat.

The recipe is somewhat labor-intensive, so plan accordingly to allow the phyllo dough to defrost and to let the baked baklava absorb the honey syrup overnight before serving.

Preparation time: 1 hour, plus overnight for baklava to absorb honey syrup

Cooking time: 1 hour and 30 minutes

Yield: Approximately 30 pieces

1-3/4 cups granulated sugar

1-1/2 cups water

1/4 cup honey

1 small strip lemon peel

1 small cinnamon stick

3 whole cloves

2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

1-1/2 cups finely chopped walnuts

1-1/2 cups finely chopped almonds

2 teaspoons ground cinnamon

1/8 teaspoon ground cloves

1-pound package (about 20 sheets) frozen phyllo dough, defrosted overnight

3/4 cup (12 tablespoons) melted, unsalted butter

1. Prepare the syrup by combining 1-1/2 cups sugar, water, and honey in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Add the lemon peel, cinnamon stick, and whole cloves. Lower the heat to a simmer and cook, covered, 20 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool to room temperature. Add the lemon juice. Pour through a fine mesh strainer before using.

2. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

3. Combine the walnuts, almonds, the remaining 1/4 cup sugar, ground cinnamon, and ground cloves in a small bowl and set aside.

4. Unroll the defrosted phyllo dough. Place on a clean kitchen cloth. If necessary, cut sheets to fit a 13 x 9 x 2-inch pan. Cover with wax paper or a dampened kitchen cloth, wrung out well, so that the phyllo dough doesn't dry out.

5. Brush the bottoms and sides of a 13 x 9 x 2-inch baking pan with some of the melted butter.

6. Place one sheet of phyllo dough on the prepared pan. Brush with melted butter and top with another sheet of dough. Repeat the process 6 more times so that you have a stack of 8 buttered sheets.

7. Sprinkle 1 cup of the nut mixture over the buttered stack of phyllo.

8. Cover with a sheet of phyllo dough. Brush with melted butter. Top with 2 more sheets of phyllo, brushing each with butter.

9. Sprinkle another cup of the nut mixture over the buttered stack of phyllo.

10. Cover with a sheet of phyllo dough. Brush with melted butter.

11. Sprinkle the remaining nuts over the buttered stack. Top with the remaining sheets of buttered phyllo (approximately 9 more sheets, depending on brand and package size). Make sure that the top sheet is clean, without any tears. Brush with melted butter.

12. Holding a sharp knife vertically, cut the unbaked baklava into diamond shapes.

13. Bake on the center oven rack for approximately 75 minutes, or until the top is golden brown and the layers are puffed up.

14. Remove from the oven. Carefully spoon half of the prepared syrup over the baked baklava. Let sit for 5 minutes. Spoon the remaining syrup over the baklava. As soon as the baklava is cooled to room temperature, cover with foil and let sit overnight before serving.

Most 1-pound packages of phyllo dough come packaged approximately 20 to 25 sheets to a box. If the sheets are larger than the size of your pan, cut through the stack of unrolled sheets so that they fit properly. Overlap them slightly as you place them in the pan.

A Sticky Situation

2008-05-06T15:41:00.000+07:00

According to the legend of potstickers (you'll find that there's a legend about practically every food in China), the origin of this delectable treat was actually the result of an imperial chef's carelessness.

While teaching his apprentice son to make dumplings, instead of minding them as they cooked, he forgot about them until he heard sizzling coming from the wok. Sure enough, it was the potstickers, which were far more browned and crispy on the bottom than usual. Fearing reprisals from the emperor, the chef panicked. But his son — in a show of filial piety that would've done Confucius proud — offered to serve the dumplings to their boss and take the blame himself, rationalizing that because he was only a chef's apprentice, the emperor would cut him some slack rather than cut off his head.

So the young chef purposely served the "dumplings" burnt side up, taking the fall for his dad's inattention. But much to both of their surprise — and relief — the apprentice received praise instead of a death sentence! The emperor inquired as to the dish's name, and quick as a flash, the son labeled them "potstickers," for obvious reasons. And the tag has "stuck" ever since

A Simply Sensational Salad

2008-05-01T08:28:00.000+07:00

This beautiful Arugula Salad with Melons and Lime Dressing is simple and quick to make — and it looks and tastes wonderful. It's also very rich in heat-healthy vitamins A and C, folic acid, and soluble fiber. Enjoy the cool and tangy flavors of melon and lime from Chef Nora Pouillon, owner of the restaurant Nora in Washington, D.C. (it's the only certified organic restaurant in the United States!).

Tools: Small mixing bowl, melon baller

Preparation time: 10 minutes

Yield: 4 servings

Ingredients for the lime dressing:

2 tablespoons lime juice

1 tablespoon water

1/4 teaspoon sea salt

1/4 teaspoon pepper

3 tablespoons canola oil

1 tablespoon minced fresh mint leaves

Ingredients for the salad:

1/2 medium cantaloupe, seeds removed

1/2 medium honeydew, seeds removed

1 medium wedge watermelon

3/4 pound arugula or mesclun mix, washed and spun dry

Directions:

Mix the lime juice, water, salt (optional), pepper, canola oil, and mint in a small bowl. Taste for seasoning.

Use a melon baller to make balls from each kind of melon.

To assemble, toss the arugula with the lime dressing. Divide the salad among four large salad plates. Garnish each plate with an assortment of melon balls

Enjoying Japanese Finger Food: Sushi and Sashimi

2008-04-30T17:25:00.000+07:00

Although raw fish is certainly the focal point of some sushi — and all sashimi — it's not the whole story. Sushi can take the form of fingers of rice topped with raw or cooked fish, or even sweetened omelet, or it can be cone-shaped rolls of nori (a type of seaweed) filled with jewel-toned fish eggs and veggies. It can be cylindrical rolls filled with rice, nori, and avocado, either thin or wide. It can even take the form of a bowl of rice with fish and other flavorful ingredients scattered on top. There is huge variety!

Serving sashimi is an art form and can be as simple as a few slices of tuna on a plate, to a rainbow selection of fish with grated daikon radish, wasabi (a green Japanese horseradish), and dipping sauce on the side.

Fishing for the details
Sushi is not just raw fish, as you may have believed. The word actually refers to the "fingers" (finger shapes, that is) of vinegared rice that support choice morsels of raw fish, or sometimes other items such as cooked shrimp or a bit of rolled omelet. This kind of sushi is referred to as nigirizushi.

Following are descriptions of the different kinds of sushi:

Nigirizushi: Fingers of vinegared rice topped with raw fish or other items, such as cooked shrimp or sweet omelet.
Makizushi: Sushi rolls made with a makisu, a mat made from thin pieces of bamboo that facilitates the rolling process. They usually consist of a sheet of nori seaweed filled with sushi rice and some sort of filling in the center. You also can find inside-out rolls, which have the rice on the outside and the nori and fillings on the inside.
Temaki: These are also called "hand rolls" as they're made by simply stuffing sheets of nori with rice and fillings and rolling by hand into a cone shape. You eat these out of hand rather than with chopsticks.
Oshizushi: This sushi is a specialty of the city of Osaka, and you need a special mold to make it. You press sushi rice into a wooden (or sometimes metal) mold and then top it with fish or other toppings. The top of the mold is put into place and presses down on the whole shebang. When you remove the top, you have a large cake of sushi, which is then cut into bite-sized pieces.
If you have the mold, you can see how this is an easy way to make many pieces of sushi at once — great for a party. You can find the molds at some Asian grocery stores.
Inarizushi: This is a simple-to-make vegetarian option for sushi lovers. You purchase aburage, which are fried pouches of tofu, so much of the work is already done. You simply stuff the pouches with sushi rice and some seasonings. These are great for picnics and lunch boxes.
Chirashizushi: Literally translated as "scattered" sushi, which is exactly what it is. This is the easiest sushi to make: You take a bowl of sushi rice and "scatter," quite artfully, a selection of fish and vegetables. As with the oshizushi mentioned earlier in this list, this is a great party dish. You can make one big bowl and let guests serve themselves, or you can take a little more time to arrange individual bowls for a dinner party.
Dining etiquette
When you sit down to eat sushi in better restaurants, you're presented with a warm, wet washcloth with which to wipe your hands. Not only is this a gracious way to start, but if you're eating the sushi with your fingers, which is perfectly okay, it's sanitary as well.

Every place setting should have a small dipping dish (for soy sauce) and a pair of chopsticks. Every table should have a small bottle of soy sauce. Many restaurants make a house sauce by combining soy sauce, mirin, sake, and bonito flakes; but if you're serving sushi at home, you can just use soy sauce.

Here are some rules of etiquette to remember:

Pour some soy sauce or dipping sauce into your own dipping dish.
Pick up each piece of nigirizushi with chopsticks or your fingers and dip the topping in soy sauce in your little dish. If you dip the side with the rice, it will fall apart.
It's most proper to eat your nigirizushi in one bite — two at the most.
When eating sushi rolls, you can use chopsticks or your fingers. Hand rolls are always eaten out of hand.
Wasabi and paper-thin slices of pickled ginger are offered with your sushi and sashimi. Add a dab of wasabi (Watch out! This is hot stuff!) to your sushi and sashimi to taste, and eat pickled ginger between bites of sushi to cleanse the palate.
Sashimi is often presented with a mound of finely shredded daikon; eat it between pieces of fish to refresh your palate.
The pickled ginger and daikon cleanse the palate between bites so that your taste buds can more fully appreciate the next type of fish.
If you are presented with some sushi made from sweetened, rolled omelet, eat it last; it's kind of looked upon as a mini-dessert because it is sweet.
When it's time to take a break, or when you are finished, place your chopsticks horizontally in front of you, parallel to the edge of the table that's closest to you.
Speaking the language
Try using these words and phrases when talking about sushi and sashimi, whether in a restaurant or at home:

Omakasezushi: The chef's choice. When you say this at a sushi bar, it means that you're putting your order in the chef's capable hands. You'll get what is freshest and, quite possibly, most expensive.
Tekkamaki: Tuna roll.
Kappamaki: Cucumber roll.
Tekkappamaki: Selection of both tuna and cucumber rolls.
Futomaki: Thick rolled sushi, about 2 to 3 inches across.
Hosomaki: Thin rolled sushi, about 1 inch across.
Inarizushi: Fried tofu pockets filled with sushi rice and seasonings.
Kore o kudasai: "I'll have some of this, please."
Oaiso o onegai shimasu: "Check, please."
Arigatou: "Thank you

Exploring Chinese Herbs and Spices

2008-04-30T17:18:00.000+07:00

Chinese cooking involves some exotic herbs and spices that are getting easier to find in your local supermarket. Excite your palate and try some of these herbs and spices the next time you cook a Chinese meal.

Unless otherwise indicated, store each of these spices in a jar (preferably glass) with a tightly fitting lid in a cool, dry place. They'll keep for several months.

Chinese five-spice powder
This light cocoa-colored powder originally contained five specific spices. Nowadays, it contains more, including cinnamon, star anise, fennel, clove, ginger, licorice, Sichuan peppercorn, and dried tangerine peel. It has an unmistakable cinnamon and anise flavor that's perfect with braised meats, roasts, barbecues, and red-cooked dishes. Stored properly, this will keep for a year.

Chinese hot mustard
You might already know this fiery, pungent, horseradish-like condiment. It's so piquant and distinctive that it makes a perfect crossover flavoring agent and condiment for many Western recipes.

Chinese hot mustards are available already prepared or in powdered form. Store opened containers of prepared mustard in the refrigerator. Powdered or prepared, it'll keep for several months.

Ginger
This pale golden, knobby, hand-shaped "root" smells great and has a spicy bite and natural sweetness. Slice, julienne, mince, or grate fresh ginger for dressings, sauces, and marinades. Include it in poultry, meat, seafood, and vegetable dishes.

Fresh ginger is hard, heavy, and free of wrinkles and mold. It's available year-round in the produce section. Young ginger is more delicate in flavor and texture, and is available in summer and fall. Store mature ginger in a cool, dry place for up to a couple weeks. Alternatively, peel and place it in a jar with rice wine sherry and refrigerate for up to several months.

Sichuan peppercorns
Black peppercorns are no substitute for these dried, reddish brown berries with a unique woodsy fragrance. To give red-cooked dishes and stir-fries a distinctive Chinese flavor, stick with Sichuan when it comes to peppercorns.

Toast a handful of them in a dry frying pan over low heat until they become fragrant and then add them to your recipe. You can work with either whole peppercorns or ones that are crushed to a fine or coarse powder.

Sichuan peppercorns are available in plastic bags. Some packages label them "wild" or "red" pepper; don't let the latter name confuse you — these are not the same as red chile peppers.

Star anise
These approximately 1-inch, star-shaped pods have points, each containing a shiny, mahogany-colored seed. It has a licorice flavor that complements meats and poultry in red-cooked and barbecued dishes.

Use it to make rich braising sauces and stews. Don't eat the whole spice; just let it infuse the sauce or braising liquid. Ground star anise goes into flavoring powders (like Chinese five-spice powder) and in dipping sauces.

You can find whole and ground star anise in plastic packages and small jars. Broken stars are unavoidable, given their delicate points. Eight broken points still equal one whole pod. Store whole and powdered star anise in separate jars

Uncovering the Main Types of Jewish Cuisine

2008-04-30T17:16:00.000+07:00

Two major cultural groups make up the Jewish people — the Ashkenazic, or Central European, and the Sephardic, or Mediterranean. Differing regional backgrounds are their most distinguishing characteristics. Neither category is homogeneous. Each style is composed of numerous smaller communities, each of which has developed its own variations in their traditional dishes.

Unlike the regional cooking styles of such countries as France and Italy, the branches of Jewish cooking are very much a result of migration. Throughout their history, Jews have had to move from one place to another. Often, Jews of different backgrounds ended up in the same country and eventually adopted seasonings and recipes from each other.

Ashkenazic and American style
The Ashkenazic Jews come from Central and Eastern Europe, notably Poland, the European parts of Russia, Germany, and the surrounding countries. They and their cooking style are the most familiar to Americans for a simple reason: Ashkenazic Jews make up the majority of the Jewish population of the United States and Canada.

The word Ashkenazic comes from Ashkenaz, an old Hebrew word for Germany.

Seasonings
In their kitchens, Ashkenazic cooks prefer straightforward seasonings that emphasize the inherent tastes of foods rather than a large number of herbs and spices. This tendency may explain why so many of their specialties, from warming soups to roast chickens to potato pancakes to noodle casseroles, have become comfort foods.

Sweet and sour stews of meat and vegetables are another hallmark of Ashkenazic cooking. Perhaps the most famous example is tzimmes, a stew of sweet vegetables such as carrots and sweet potatoes, dried fruit such as prunes or apricots, and often beef. To create the sweet and sour effect, cooks use sugar, honey, or raisins tempered with vinegar or lemon juice. They employ this flavoring technique for soups and meatless dishes as well.

Dill, bay leaves, parsley, and chives are the herbs of choice. Black pepper and paprika — both mild and hot — are the preferred spices. The food is tasty and not usually spicy but not bland.

Deli delights
When Ashkenazic Jews arrived in North America, some started small eateries so that their friends and neighbors could enjoy the foods they craved from the "old country," or Europe. These eateries grew into the delicatessen-restaurants that are so loved today in the United States and Canada.

The food was mainly simple home cooking, such as the following:

Cheesecake: On Jewish tables, cheesecakes are one of the all-time favorite desserts. Jews from Poland, Russia, and Hungary did much to popularize their luscious cheesecakes across America.
Knishes: These pastry pillow turnovers are traditionally filled with meat, potato, or other vegetable fillings. People enjoy these turnovers most when they are warm and serve them as substantial snacks or as first courses at dinners.
Kugel: Ashkenazic Jews are immensely fond of egg noodles and use them in inventive ways. Perhaps the most well-known is the kugel, a delicious baked casserole combining the pasta with flavorful seasonings and eggs. You can make kugel savory with onions or other vegetables or sweet and fruity for dessert.
Lox: Lox is salmon cured in brine so that it acquires a deliciously distinctive, slightly salty flavor. Many feel that a thin slice of lox on a bagel spread with cream cheese is practically a sandwich made in heaven! In Jewish homes, lox is the favorite brunch food and is enjoyed at many other occasions as well, from parties to light meals at home.
Lox is not smoked. Today, however, many substitute smoked salmon for lox.
Sephardic style
Sephardic Jews originated in the lands around the Mediterranean area and in the Middle East. Their cuisine is exuberant with the sunny flavors of this area.

Sephardic cooking is not only delicious, but is healthful, too. It could be considered a kosher branch of the style of eating known among nutritionists as the Mediterranean diet.

The word Sephardic comes from Sepharad, the Hebrew word for Spain. Many of the Sephardic Jews descended from the Spanish Jews who were exiled from Spain in 1492. They migrated mostly to other Mediterranean countries.

Seasonings
With plenty of herbs and sometimes generous use of spices, Sephardic cooking is aromatic. Lemon, garlic, tomatoes, and olive oil are its favorite flavors. Olives are popular, too, as appetizers and to lend their pungent flavor to stews.

Cooks use herbs with a generous hand, especially Italian parsley and cilantro. Many love dill, thyme, and rosemary also.

Sephardic Jews from Morocco and other North African countries enjoy cumin, ginger, and saffron, while some from the Middle East pair cumin with turmeric. Many like chilies, too, and their cooking can be quite hot. Jewish cooks from the eastern end of the Mediterranean are so fond of cinnamon that they use it as a savory accent for meat dishes, as well as to perfume their sweets.

Mediterranean favorites
Vegetables figure prominently on the Sephardic menu. Cooks prepare them in numerous ways, notably as an impressive array of salads to begin feasts. They use peppers, eggplant, zucchini, artichokes, and beans this way. Delectable vegetables braised in savory tomato sauce and vegetables stuffed with fragrant meat and rice stuffings are other highlights of their holiday tables.

Braised meats with rice or couscous are favorite main courses. For special occasions, the rice may be embellished with dried fruit and nuts.

Pita, or pocket bread, is the best-known bread of Sephardic origin. If you have tried only the mass-marketed types, try to taste fresh pita from an Israeli or Middle Eastern bakery. As with pizza, which is made from a similar dough, there is a world of difference between a fresh-baked pita straight from the oven and a packaged one designed to last a long time.

Sephardic cooks often bake their pastries, both savory and sweet, from filo dough. Bourekas are a popular appetizer pastry and often have feta cheese, spinach, or potato fillings. Baklava, a favorite sweet, features the dough layered with a nut and sugar filling and moistened with syrup.

Israeli style
Israel was the original homeland of the Jewish people before their wanderings divided them into the Ashkenazic and Sephardic groups. In modern days, members of both communities have come together in the Jewish State.

From a culinary standpoint, the result is an active melting pot. With people from so many different countries living in close proximity in a small space, neighbors and friends actively exchange recipes and try each other's favorite flavors.

Falafel is the most famous specialty of Israel. Originally an eastern Mediterranean appetizer, it became Israel's favorite light meal. In Israel, falafel is as common as hamburgers are in the United States. People eat falafel in pita sandwiches at casual falafel restaurants as a quick pick-me-up and also enjoy making it at home.

In just about every Israeli home, a salad of finely diced tomatoes, cucumbers, and onions dressed with olive oil and lemon juice is a staple. It's called simply Israeli salad. Most people eat it at least once a day, as a first course or to accompany an entree from roast chicken to a simple omelet

Measuring Ingredients for Baking

2008-04-30T16:57:00.000+07:00

You probably know someone who bakes a lot, and it seems like she just tosses this in and that in and presto, out come cookies or a pie or something delicious. It seems like magic, so you may wonder how important it is to be accurate in measuring. The answer is: very important. Proper measuring is critical to baking. Baking is a science, and when you mix together ingredients, you're creating chemistry, albeit edible chemistry, so being precise is important. There is balance between flour, leaveners, fats, and liquids.

Extra salt or baking soda can ruin otherwise perfect cookies. Too much flour makes muffins taste dry and flavorless. No beginning cook should be nonchalant about measuring. The success of your recipe depends on it.

As you begin to feel more comfortable with baking, you may feel inclined to experiment a bit, maybe add some chocolate chips to peanut butter cookies, or throw some nuts or dried cranberries into oatmeal cookies, or substitute pecans for walnuts. That's all well and fine, but give it time. You're never too good or experienced to measure.

Measuring equipment
Measuring spoons come in sets of four or six, ranging from 1/4 teaspoon to 1 tablespoon. (Be sure to use graded teaspoons and tablespoons — and not the spoons you use to eat with —for accuracy.) You can use the same measuring tools for both liquids and dry ingredients. For liquids, fill the spoon until it's full. For dry ingredients, pour or scoop into the spoon until it's full, leveling off the spoon with the straight edge of a spatula or knife.

Never measure over the bowl of ingredients you're using for the recipe. If you overpour or level extra into the bowl, your measurements will not be accurate.

Measuring cups are essential for every kitchen. You won't find many recipes that don't require measurements of some kind. Measuring cups come in two basic types:

Graded: Graded cups range in sizes from 1/4 cup to 1 cup and can range from 4 to 6 cups in a set. Use graded cups to measure dry ingredients and solid fats, such as shortening.
Glass: Glass cups are available in a wide range of sizes, the most common being 1 cup, 2 cups, and 4 cups. Use these cups for measuring liquids.
When measuring thick, sticky liquids such as honey, molasses, and corn syrup, spray the inside of the measuring glass with nonstick cooking spray or grease it a little with oil. The liquid will then be much easier to remove.

Measuring dry ingredients
To measure flour, sugar, breadcrumbs, and other dry ingredients (with the exception of brown sugar in many cases), spoon the ingredients lightly into the measuring cup. Do not shake the cup to make level! Take the straight edge of a knife (not the cutting edge) and level off the ingredient. Leveling it off gives you one level cup. If the recipe calls for a heaping cup, do not level off the cup. Instead, leave a small mounded top of ingredients.

Sometimes ingredients, such as brown sugar, shredded cheeses, coconut, or herbs, are called for as lightly or firmly packed. Why pack? Generally, these ingredients are bulkier and can form big air pockets if you use the traditional spoon-and-level method of measuring. If you apply light or slightly firm pressure to the ingredients, you eliminate some of the air pockets and get a more accurate measurement. Never push the ingredients in so much that you actually crush them or pack them in so tightly that you have difficulty getting them out the of cup measure. If you do so, you will overmeasure, adding too much of the ingredient. A good visual cue that you have lightly packed something is that after you pour it out of the measuring cup, it will lose the shape of the cup it was in. If it's firmly packed, it will slightly retain the shape of the measuring cup after it's dumped out into the bowl, but it will be easy to stir apart.

To measure chopped nuts, shredded cheese, fresh herbs, and coconut, spoon the ingredients into the measuring cup and pack down lightly.

Measuring fats and other solids
To measure shortening, spoon the ingredients into a cup and pack down firmly with a spoon or rubber spatula to eliminate any air holes. Bakers, these days, don't often have to measure fats because butter and margarine come in conveniently measured sticks. One stick equals 8 tablespoons or 1/2 cup. Two sticks equal 1 cup. You still have to measure solid shortening, but now they make shortening sticks, so even that task has been greatly simplified.

If you're measuring fats, an easy way to keep the cup clean (and save yourself time by not having to wash it) is to place a piece of plastic wrap in the measuring cup first. Then, after the shortening is measured, pull the ends of the plastic out of the cup. The measuring cup stays clean and you have perfectly measured shortening.

Measuring liquids
Always use a glass measuring cup for measuring liquids. For an accurate reading, always rest the cup on a level surface and read at eye level.

Sometimes the container in which you purchase an ingredient might be labeled in ounces when your recipe calls for cup or spoon measurements (or vice versa). Check out Table 1 for some common equivalencies.

Table 1: Measurement Equivalents

If a Recipe Calls for This Amount
You Also Can Measure It This Way

Dash
2 or 3 drops (liquid) or less than 1/8 teaspoon (dry)

1 tablespoon
3 teaspoons or 1/2 ounce

2 tablespoons
1 ounce

1/4 cup
4 tablespoons or 2 ounces

1/3 cup
5 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon

1/2 cup
8 tablespoons or 4 ounces

1 cup
16 tablespoons or 8 ounces

1 pint
2 cups or 16 ounces or 1 pound

1 quart
4 cups or 2 pints

1 gallon
4 quarts

1 pound
16 ounces

Vietnamese Lemongrass Rub for Grilled Lamb, Chicken, and Seafood

2008-04-30T16:53:00.000+07:00

Filet Mignon with Irish Whiskey Sauce

2008-04-30T16:15:00.000+07:00

This decadent recipe for Filet Mignon with Irish Whiskey Sauce is wonderful for a special dinner. The filet generally is considered the most tender cut of beef, but it lacks a little flavor when compared with other cuts, such as sirloin or ribeye steaks. That's why it's a great idea to sauce up your filet.

Filet Mignon with Irish Whiskey Sauce

Yield: 4 servings

4 small filet mignons (4 ounce each)

2 tablespoons butter

1 clove garlic, diced

1 teaspoon finely diced shallots

1-1/2 cups mushrooms, chopped

1 teaspoon honey

1/2 teaspoon wholegrain mustard

1 ounce Jameson Irish Whiskey

3/4 cup beef stock

3/4 cup heavy (double) cream

Freshly ground black pepper to taste

1. Melt the butter in a skillet over medium-high heat.

2. Add the filets and sauté until they're done to your preference. Transfer the filets from the pan to a heated platter, and cover them loosely with foil to keep warm.

3. To the skillet, add the garlic, shallots, and mushrooms, and sauté over medium heat until soft.

4. Add honey and wholegrain mustard to the pan and stir.

5. Add the whiskey, and turn up the heat so that the sauce boils for 1 minute as the alcohol evaporates.

6. Turn down the heat and stir in the beef stock. Boil gently until the amount of sauce in the pan is reduced by half.

7. Stir in the cream, and continuing stirring until the sauce thickens.

8. Give the sauce a quick taste, and add salt and pepper as needed.

9. To serve, slice the filets, put them on plates, and pour the sauce over the top

Chinese Honey Garlic Chicken

2008-04-30T16:12:00.000+07:00

This simple chicken recipe for a Chinese stir-fry calls for 12 cloves of garlic. Honey's smoothness mellows the intense garlic flavor, and dried chiles add a kick of heat. The artful balance of sweet, savory, and spicy in this chicken dish characterizes classic Chinese cooking. Pairing honey with garlic may not seem like an obvious combination, but after trying this honey of a sauce, you'll be sweet on it yourself.

Honey Garlic Chicken

Preparation time: 15 minutes

Cooking time: 8 minutes

Yield: 4 servings

2 tablespoons oyster-flavored sauce

1 tablespoon Chinese rice wine

1 teaspoon cornstarch

1/8 teaspoon Chinese five-spice powder

1 pound boneless, skinless chicken, cut into 1-inch cubes

1/3 cup chicken broth

1 tablespoon dark soy sauce

2 tablespoons honey

1-1/2 tablespoons cooking oil

12 cloves garlic, crushed

3 whole dried red chiles

1 cup cubed water chestnuts or jícama (1/2-inch pieces)

1. To make the marinade, combine the oyster-flavored sauce, rice wine, cornstarch, and five-spice powder in a bowl. Add the chicken and stir to coat. Let stand for 10 minutes.

2. To make the sauce, combine the chicken broth, soy sauce, and honey in a bowl.

3. Place a wok over high heat until hot. Add the oil, swirling to coat the sides. Add the garlic; cook, stirring, until golden brown, about 2 minutes. (Be careful not to let the garlic burn!) Add the chiles and cook until fragrant, about 10 seconds. Add the chicken and stir-fry until done, 4 to 5 minutes. Add the water chestnuts and the sauce; bring to a boil until the sauce reduces slightly and the chicken is fully glazed, about 2 minutes.

If the thought of peeling 12 cloves of garlic drives you out of your own skin, just remember that a good smash with the flat of your knife's blade makes quick work of slipping off those papery peels

Chinese Pan-Grilled Salmon Fillet with Black Bean Sauce

2008-04-30T16:10:00.000+07:00

Try this recipe for Chinese Pan-Grilled Salmon Fillet, and you'll create a fish dish full of lush flavor. Its marinade is redolent with Asian seasonings like ginger, green onion, and pungent black bean sauce. The slight crispness and caramelization of the pan-grilled salmon accentuate those lingering marinade flavors, too. Serve the grilled salmon with rice and stir-fried vegetables.

Chinese Pan-Grilled Salmon Fillet with Black Bean Sauce

Preparation time: 8 minutes

Cooking time: 15 minutes

Yield: 4 servings

3 tablespoons chicken broth

2 tablespoons black bean garlic sauce

1 tablespoon minced ginger

1 tablespoon Chinese rice wine

1 tablespoon sugar

2 teaspoons sesame oil

4 green onions, sliced

4 pieces (about 4 ounces each) salmon fillets, 3⁄4 inch thick

2 tablespoons cooking oil

1. Make the marinade: Combine the chicken broth, black bean garlic sauce, ginger, rice wine, sugar, sesame oil, and green onions in a bowl. Add the salmon fillets; turn to coat. Let stand for 10 minutes.

2. Lift the salmon fillets from the marinade and drain, reserving the marinade in a small pan. Place a nonstick grill pan over high heat until hot. Add the oil, swirling to coat the pan. Add the salmon fillets to the pan and cook to sear, about 4 minutes on each side.

3. While the salmon is cooking, simmer the reserved marinade until slightly reduced, about 3 minutes.

To serve, place the salmon fillets on a platter and pour the sauce over the fish.

Instead of pan-grilling, you can cook the fillets in a pre-heated broiler for 4 minutes per side. You'll savor the same irresistible crispy-charred texture that you get with pan grilling

Hot and Sweet Spice Rub

2008-04-30T16:07:00.001+07:00

Rubs are usually a dry combination of herbs and spices, although sometimes a little oil is added to moisten the mixture. You simply massage rubs onto the surface of the food and end up with a wonderful crispness to the crust. Rubs are fast becoming the darlings of the grilling cook because, unlike marinades, they can be applied just before the food is grilled. However, if you have the time, let the food absorb the spice mixture in the refrigerator for several hours or overnight. Small tender pieces of fish or shellfish will benefit from about 30 minutes of standing time. A whole, spice-rubbed turkey should be plastic-wrapped to hold the rub tightly against its skin and then refrigerated overnight.

Rubs that are completely dry, without any oil or liquid ingredient, can be stored indefinitely in airtight containers in a cool, dry place. The amount of rub used to cover the surface of a piece of meat is entirely a matter of taste, but our rule calls for about 1 tablespoon for every pound of food.

To help the rub cling to the food's surface, apply it to food that is either completely dry or coated with a little oil. When seasoning poultry, spread the rub evenly over the surface and also under the skin as much as possible, being careful not to tear it.

Rub mixtures often call for crushing whole spices. You can best accomplish this task with a mortar and pestle; but if you don't have this kitchen tool, place the spices in a plastic bag and pound them with a rolling pin or a meat mallet until finely crushed.

This rub gives an interesting sweet and spicy flavor to all kinds of meat.

Preparation time: 5 minutes

Yield: 2 tablespoons

Ingredients:

2 teaspoons chili powder

1 teaspoon paprika

1 teaspoon brown sugar, firmly packed

1/2 teaspoon flour

1/2 teaspoon garlic salt

1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon ground allspice

Pinch of pepper

Kosher or table salt (optional)

Combine all ingredients and use as a rub for 2 to 2-1/2 pounds of beef, poultry, or pork. Coat the food lightly with oil before applying. Sprinkle grilled food lightly with additional kosher or table salt before serving (if desired).

Substituting Ingredients

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Say you're making a vinaigrette dressing for a salad and suddenly realize that you're out of vinegar. But you do have lemons, which are an acceptable substitute. How much lemon do you use? Or you may not have whole milk for a gratin dish, but you do have skim milk. Is skim milk okay? Situations like these are what the following remedies are all about.

Some ingredients are almost always interchangeable: For example, you can substitute vegetable or olive oil in most cases for butter when sautéing or pan frying; lemon juice for vinegar in salad dressings and marinades; almonds for walnuts in baked breads and muffins; vegetable stock for beef or chicken stock in soups, stews, or sauces; and light cream for half-and-half.

But sometimes there is no acceptable substitution for an ingredient. Other times, the substitution is very exact and specific. This is most often the case for baked goods, where you need to follow a formula to produce a cake, soufflé, pastry, or bread with the perfect height, density, and texture.

Most of the following substitutions are for emergency situations only — when you have run out of an essential ingredient and need a very specific replacement.

For thickening soups, stews, and sauces:

1 tablespoon cornstarch or potato flour = 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

1 tablespoon arrowroot = 2 1/2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

For flour:

l cup minus 2 tablespoons sifted all-purpose flour = l cup sifted cake flour

l cup plus 2 tablespoons sifted cake flour = l cup sifted all-purpose flour

l cup sifted self-rising flour = l cup sifted all-purpose flour plus 1 1/4 teaspoons baking powder and a pinch of salt

For leavening agents in baked goods:

1/4 teaspoon baking soda plus 1/3 teaspoon cream of tartar = l teaspoon double-acting baking powder

1/4 teaspoon baking soda plus 1/2 cup buttermilk or yogurt = l teaspoon double-acting baking powder in liquid mixtures only; reduce liquid in recipe by 1/2 cup

For dairy products:

l cup whole milk = 1/2 cup unsweetened evaporated milk plus 1/2 cup water

or l cup skim milk plus 2 teaspoons melted butter

or l cup water plus 1/3 cup powdered milk

or l cup soy milk

or l cup buttermilk plus 1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1/4 cup whole milk plus 1/3 cup melted butter = l cup heavy cream (but not for making whipped cream)

l cup skim milk =1 cup water plus 1/4 cup nonfat powdered milk

or 1/2 cup evaporated skim milk plus 1/3 cup water

l cup sour milk = l cup buttermilk or plain yogurt/li>

or l cup minus 1 tablespoon milk, plus 1 tablespoon lemon juice

or white vinegar after standing 5 to 10 minutes

l cup sour cream = l cup plain yogurt

For eggs:

2 egg yolks = l egg for thickening sauces and custards

4 extra-large eggs = 5 large eggs or 6 small eggs

For sweetening:

l cup sugar = l cup molasses (or honey) plus 1/2 teaspoon baking soda

l cup brown sugar = l cup white sugar plus 1 1/2 tablespoons molasses

Miscellaneous substitutions:

l cup broth or stock = l bouillon cube dissolved in l cup boiling water

1 square (1 ounce) unsweetened chocolate = 3 tablespoons cocoa plus 1 tablespoon butter, margarine, or vegetable shortening

1 square (1 ounce) semisweet chocolate = 3 tablespoons cocoa plus 1 tablespoon butter, margarine, or vegetable shortening plus 2 tablespoons sugar

1 2- to 3-inch piece of vanilla bean = 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

Baking 101: Flour and Sugar

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No matter what you decide to bake, the dynamic duo of your baking pantry consists of flour and sugar. Each of these essentials comes in a variety of forms, and knowing which to use and how to substitute for them is essential to baking success.

Flour
Flour is the primary ingredient for most cakes, cookies, pastries, and breads. Although it is one of the most basic baking ingredients, it also can be the most confusing, because of the wide variety available on grocery store shelves. Some flours are perfect for bread baking but disastrous for piecrusts or tender pastries. What makes a flour good for one recipe and bad for another? The amount of protein it contains. The more protein a flour has, the more gluten it will produce when it's kneaded. And the more gluten you have, the less tender your baked good will be.

Gluten is the protein that forms weblike structures present in wheat and other flours. When the flour is moistened and the bread is kneaded, or when doughs and batters are mixed together, gluten forms and adds an elastic and cohesive nature to the food. This elasticity allows the dough to expand and trap the carbon dioxide, produced by the leavening, which makes the dough rise and stretch. Gluten makes it all possible!

Several different kinds of flour are available for baking; all-purpose, cake, bread, self-rising, and whole wheat flour are just a few. Become acquainted with three basic types of flour: all-purpose flour, cake flour, and bread flour.

All-purpose flour is a blend of hard and soft wheat flours. The presence of more and tougher gluten in the hard wheat results in a rather elastic product. This produces the texture you want for cakes and cookies.
Bleached and unbleached all-purpose flours can be used interchangeably, but unbleached flour has a higher nutritional value. Southern flours, such as White Lily, are made with a softer wheat, which means that they have qualities similar to cake flour. Southern flour is great for tender biscuits and piecrusts.
Cake flour is made with soft wheat, producing less gluten when mixed, so your cake will be more delicate, with a slightly crumbly texture. When purchasing cake flour, don't buy self-rising cake flour unless the recipe specifically calls for it. If you do buy it by mistake, omit the baking powder or baking soda and salt from the recipe.
You can easily substitute cake flour for all-purpose flour, or vice versa:
• If your recipe calls for cake flour and you have only all-purpose flour on hand, you can substitute 1 cup minus 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour for 1 cup of cake flour.

• If you need all-purpose flour and have only cake flour on hand, substitute 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons of cake flour for 1 cup of all-purpose flour. The texture will be different, but if you have no other choice, it's okay.

• If you have instant flour on hand, such as Wondra, combine 2 tablespoons in the cup measure, then add enough all-purpose flour to make 1 cup (which would be about 3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons). That will also give you a flour similar to cake flour.

Bread flour has a higher gluten-forming protein content, making the dough nice and elastic. This makes it ideal for bread-making.
Don't store any of your flours in the paper sacks you buy them in. Instead, transfer them into airtight canisters and store them in a cool, dry place to make sure your flour won't absorb any odors or off-flavors. Label the containers to ensure that you can tell the difference between the different varieties (they tend to look the same out of their bags). Flour can last up to six months if stored properly in the pantry and indefinitely if stored in the freezer. If you bought the flour from a natural food store, place it in the freezer for a few days to make sure nothing will hatch.

If you use flour slowly, you can store your flour in the freezer. Double-bag the flour in sealable freezer bags and be sure to label it. Flour stored in the freezer can last for several years.

Sugar
Sugar, another basic in baking, gives tenderness and sweetness to doughs and batters. Sugar also causes browning because it caramelizes (turns brown) when heated. Sugar also is a food source for yeast, making it rise.

In baking, you need to have three different types of sugar on hand: granulated sugar, confectioners' sugar, and brown sugar (light or dark).

Granulated sugar is standard white sugar, made from either sugar cane or sugar beets, and is the most popular and readily available sweetener in baking. Superfine sugar is a form of granulated sugar that dissolves easily in liquid. You can make your own superfine sugar: Place 1 cup of granulated sugar in the blender, cover, and process for 1 minute. Let it sit for about 1 minute longer to let the "smoke" settle. This produces 1 cup of superfine sugar. Sometimes superfine sugar is used in frostings and certain cakes. It dissolves quickly, so it doesn't need much cooking time.
Confectioners' (powdered) sugar has been refined to a powder and contains a small amount of cornstarch to prevent lumping. Confectioners' sugar dissolves instantly in liquid and has a smoothness that makes it a popular choice for frostings, icings, and whipped toppings. It's also perfect for dusting cake tops and brownies. If your confectioners' sugar becomes lumpy, you can sift it.
Brown sugar, both light and dark, is a mixture of granulated sugar and molasses. Brown sugar has a deeper flavor than granulated sugar. The color of brown sugar depends on the amount of molasses mixed in; dark brown sugar has more. Light brown sugar is the most common type used in baking, but the more assertively flavored dark brown sugar is also used. Recipes specify which brown sugar to use when it makes a difference; otherwise, you can use whichever you have on hand.
• When measuring brown sugar for recipes, be sure to pack it into the measuring cup for accurate measuring.

• When exposed to air for an extended amount of time, brown sugar has a tendency to harden. If this happens to your sugar, there's a quick fix: Place the hardened brown sugar in a heatproof bowl, and place the bowl in a baking pan containing about an inch of water. Tightly cover the entire baking pan with aluminum foil and place it in a 200-degree Fahrenheit oven for 20 minutes or until softened. Use the softened brown sugar immediately, because it re-hardens when it cools. You can also use your microwave to soften brown sugar. Place the hardened sugar in a microwavable dish. Add a wedge of apple. Cover and microwave on high for 30 to 45 seconds. Let stand for about 30 seconds, then use normally.

Store all your sugars in airtight containers in a cool, dry place